Angel Chunky Hoody Coat
I love sweater coats, and hoodies in particular, so when I found this chunky, boucle, fuzzy, multi-coloured yarn on sale at http://www.elann.com/, well, I ordered it immediately, then spent 2 months deciding what to do with it. I chose a slightly ribby, basic shape with saddle shoulders for stability and a generous length for chilly days. Finished with big buttons, I can wear it outside, almost all year round.
Yarn: Tahki – Angel, 70 % wool, 30 % acrylic: 10 balls, 50gm, 90 m. Colour used, #6 a black based multi, with green, rust, purple tufts. (substitutes: any fluffy or nubby chunky yarn that can knit to the gauge)
Needles: 6.0 mm (US 10) straight needles for sweater, 5.5 mm (US 9) long circular for finishing rib.
Gauge: 10 sts & 16 rows = 4inches
Finished measurements: 40 inch chest and 29 inch from shoulder to bottom edge.
Back: With 6.0 mm needles cast on 48 sts. Start rib pattern; p3, k2, across, end with p3 (wrong side k3, p2, across, end with k3.) Work straight as established until piece measures 21 inches.
Armhole shaping; Bind off 4 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. Decrease 1 at each side every other row, 4 times.
Continue working until piece measures 28 inches.
Shoulders: Bind off 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows, bind off 3 sts at beg of next 4 rows. Bind of last 16 sts of neck.
Front: Make 2,[reverse shaping of 2nd front].
Cast on 24 sts, and begin body rib pattern. Work as for back including same armhole shaping, and when piece measures 28 inches shape center neckline: Bind off 7 sts at neck edge, then decrease one more on next right side row. Finish shoulder shaping as for back.
Sleeves:[make 2]
Cast on 20 sts, work in body rib, Increasing one stitch at each end on 8th row and every 6th row , until there are 38 sts on needles. Continue until length of sleeve is 19 inches [or desired length].
Cap shaping; Bind off 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows. Dec 1 sts at each end, every right side row 6 times . bind off 3 at beg of next 2 rows , then 4 at beg of next 2 rows (4 sts remain). Work center 4 sts in stocking stitch for 4 inches [for saddle tab]. Bind off.
Sew sh
oulders of fronts and back to saddle tabs of sleeve, sew sleeve caps, then side and sleeve seams.
Hood: Using 6.0 mm needles, and right side facing, pick up 9 sts on right front neck, and pick up 16 sts across back neck [placing marker at center of back neck] and 9 sts from left front neck.
Work in stocking stitch for hood, increase one stitch on each side of center back marker, every 4 rows, 9 times. Work until piece measures, 11 inches. Bind off and sew hood top seam.
Finishing; Using Circular needles (5.5 mm) pick up 90 sts up right front edge, then 50 up and over the hood (front edge), then 90 sts down the left edge. Work in k1, p1 ribbing for one inch, then bind off in rib st. Sew big buttons to one side and crochet a loop to correspond on opposite edge.
I love sweater coats, and hoodies in particular, so when I found this chunky, boucle, fuzzy, multi-coloured yarn on sale at http://www.elann.com/, well, I ordered it immediately, then spent 2 months deciding what to do with it. I chose a slightly ribby, basic shape with saddle shoulders for stability and a generous length for chilly days. Finished with big buttons, I can wear it outside, almost all year round.
Yarn: Tahki – Angel, 70 % wool, 30 % acrylic: 10 balls, 50gm, 90 m. Colour used, #6 a black based multi, with green, rust, purple tufts. (substitutes: any fluffy or nubby chunky yarn that can knit to the gauge)
Needles: 6.0 mm (US 10) straight needles for sweater, 5.5 mm (US 9) long circular for finishing rib.
Gauge: 10 sts & 16 rows = 4inches
Finished measurements: 40 inch chest and 29 inch from shoulder to bottom edge.
Back: With 6.0 mm needles cast on 48 sts. Start rib pattern; p3, k2, across, end with p3 (wrong side k3, p2, across, end with k3.) Work straight as established until piece measures 21 inches.
Armhole shaping; Bind off 4 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. Decrease 1 at each side every other row, 4 times.
Continue working until piece measures 28 inches.
Shoulders: Bind off 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows, bind off 3 sts at beg of next 4 rows. Bind of last 16 sts of neck.
Front: Make 2,[reverse shaping of 2nd front].
Cast on 24 sts, and begin body rib pattern. Work as for back including same armhole shaping, and when piece measures 28 inches shape center neckline: Bind off 7 sts at neck edge, then decrease one more on next right side row. Finish shoulder shaping as for back.
Sleeves:[make 2]
Cast on 20 sts, work in body rib, Increasing one stitch at each end on 8th row and every 6th row , until there are 38 sts on needles. Continue until length of sleeve is 19 inches [or desired length].
Cap shaping; Bind off 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows. Dec 1 sts at each end, every right side row 6 times . bind off 3 at beg of next 2 rows , then 4 at beg of next 2 rows (4 sts remain). Work center 4 sts in stocking stitch for 4 inches [for saddle tab]. Bind off.
Sew sh
oulders of fronts and back to saddle tabs of sleeve, sew sleeve caps, then side and sleeve seams.Hood: Using 6.0 mm needles, and right side facing, pick up 9 sts on right front neck, and pick up 16 sts across back neck [placing marker at center of back neck] and 9 sts from left front neck.
Work in stocking stitch for hood, increase one stitch on each side of center back marker, every 4 rows, 9 times. Work until piece measures, 11 inches. Bind off and sew hood top seam.
Finishing; Using Circular needles (5.5 mm) pick up 90 sts up right front edge, then 50 up and over the hood (front edge), then 90 sts down the left edge. Work in k1, p1 ribbing for one inch, then bind off in rib st. Sew big buttons to one side and crochet a loop to correspond on opposite edge.
Well, I did as instructed to print out the pattern for the texting gloves (for my niece), but regret that you do not offer the pattern in Adobe, but another program that we have to add in order to download a usable print. I printed 9 pages of pattern that could have been condensed to two at the most. A waste of paper and expensive ink. I don't mean to be negative, especially when you are being so kind as to offer us your nice patterns for free, but surely there can be a better way to access a printer-friendly text using standard Abobe. Thanks, and I'll let you know how the gloves turn out!
ReplyDeleteHi Chris. I'm sorry some folks can't figure out how to copy paste to conserve paper and ink. It takes longer and is more effort, but when you are so graciously sharing your hard work and brilliant patterns....well. I just wanted to thank you without complaint or passive aggressive comments towards your kind self.
ReplyDeleteHave a wonderful day.
Cheers to you, kind reader. I have a thick skin, and accept and publish all comments (except spam advertising).
ReplyDeleteI blog because I love knitting, and enjoy hearing from knitters. I know I am not a professional pattern maker, and (believe me) I do not get PAID like one!
You just have to chuckle some times!
Chris
lizzidrippin
ReplyDeleteHi Chris, I so love your knits and this coat, really appreciating your free patterns.
I'm a relatively new knitter and also alot taller and a little more cuddly than the majority of patterns. How can I size this up? So far, I tend to use patterns that are my size, many are not very exciting. I've knitted a large chunky cardigan that cost the earth, but because I tried to make it larger, ended up with more wool than I needed and having unpicked it three times, have just adapted it's size( too big)with big wooden buttons to look like a coat! I'd like to knit something that looks like the pattern!!!
Again thanks for the inspirations, and I hope I can become as creative as you are.
This is a simple SHAPE pattern, and so would be easy to size up or down with a good gauge number and some mathematics.
ReplyDeleteI could help if you email me directly.
Chris
Hello there, I'm wanting to knit this pattern for someone but I'm unsure what size this pattern works out to, my sister is a size 14-16 UK do you know if this is the same size as you pattern, or do I need to add stitches etc etc
ReplyDeleteThank you
Odette
It knits to a size of 40 - 42 inches around body. That would be 12 - 14 North American sizes.. Not sure abou UK. Should be close.
ReplyDeleteChris
Thank you very much for getting back to me :) I made up my own stitch count, hopefully it'll all work out well in the end lol. Love this pattern btw :)
ReplyDeleteI love this hoody. I didn't have any chunky yarn, so I used two strands of worsted. I wanted to make it a little larger, so I could wear it over bulky sweaters in the winter. I added ten stitches to the back and five to each side of the front. The finished chest measurement was about 46 1/2 inches, worked on US10 needles.
ReplyDeleteI had no problem copying and pasting your lovely pattern to Microsoft Word. I then printed it to my pdf printer. Worked perfectly... in case anyone is having problems.
Thank you for sharing your pattern, Chris.
Love the fun and natural look of this coat. I want to make it for size 2x-3x --and I know how to make a swatch to learn your stitch count but I don't know where to add how many stitches, to the front or the back and how many to the arms. (My daughter is a missionary so not here to measure it against) Sooo, I'm wondering if you think it would be too big to simply double the amount of sts in your pattern? I was also wondering if the 10 sts to make 4 inches is correct on the gauge. I can't seem to get that with any size needle even with the boucle yarn I am using.
ReplyDeleteThank you for your time--I hate trying to create a pattern equally as much as I hate altering but I really love this coat.
Warmest regards, Christene
If you find a yarn that knits to gauge... and this yarn IS 10 sts to 4 inches.( It is very chunky and lightweight. ).... The size of DOUBLING the ammount of stitches would result in a whopping 80 inch chest measurement. I am sure you do not want it THAT big. So adding stitches should be done by adding 2.5 for every inch bigger than 40 inches. You really should get a measurement that is accurate, and get a gauge that is accurate. Divide the number of extra stitches between the fronts and back. I can help a bit with the math if you email me directly.
ReplyDeletehope that helps, Chris
Thanks for the quick response! Yeah I got to thinking to double it would be humongous... But 2.5 sts per extra inch helps to calculate. I did manage to get 10 sts/4 inches. I still knit tightly I guess because I had to really pull to get that. I have done a consistent sample in pattern, that would seem to make this coat rather loosely woven--I'm using a boucle synthetic yarn though because wool is soooo expensive. Is that correct?
ReplyDeleteChristene
the yarn I used was super light and fluffy, and it was loosely knit. Every yarn has its own personality and density... good that you made a swatch first.
ReplyDeleteI don't like this blog, or whatever you call it.
ReplyDeleteA reader/knitter writes in, very politely, about a problem printing your pattern, and gets slammed, by you and another of your readers.
You don't have a thick skin, since the reader's response elicited a reply typical of narcissitic injury.
You probably do have a thick skull if you can't recognize someone's frustration. Lots of other knitting bloggers do.
Just below this I'm reading that all comments have to be approved by you. In your response to the frustrated knitter you said you printed whatever came in. Print this!
Hi Lesley, I got your comment a week ago, but I was on vacation, and cannot monitor and post comments on by iPad.
ReplyDeleteI was flabergasted by this comment. So I re-read my comments in return. It did not read as a slam, but perhaps you give strange and angry voices to my words? I repeat, as I often have, that I write my blog to have an outlet where I can store and re=knit my own patterns. They are free for anyone to use. I try to assist those who cannot interpret my work, but I am not a professional pattern maker, or professional knitting instructor. If that makes you angry, I cannot change that. Remember that blog means web-log, or personal journal. I am deeply sorry to offend you and hope that you have more satisfying reading on someone else's blog.
Happily, most of my readers that choose to comment seem delighted that I post my patterns.
Bye Bye, Chris
What would I need to do to pattern to be able to insert a zipper
ReplyDeleteFor a Zipper: Instead of sewing buttons and crocheting loops, just sew a separating zipper to the edging. Watch you don't stretch it too much as you sew.
ReplyDeleteHi Chris, I LOVE your blog, and cannot imagine you ever "slamming" anyone about anything. Chloe
ReplyDeleteI can't believe these negative comments above. The time you put in just to come up with a pattern and then to be nice enough to share it. I for one wish I had even some of your ambition to be able to do this and your patience with having to deal with such expletive expletive. Anyways I thank you and appreciate the pattern.
ReplyDeleteFor Chloe and Kima, (and all the other wonderful comments and emails) I love to knit, share knitting, talk knitting, and I have thick skin! Lol.
ReplyDeleteThank YOU all for the love!
Chris
I'm absolutely floored by the negative comments aimed at you on here. Where on God's green earth do these people get the idea that you are also tech support for their lack of skills with a computer and printer? I suggest that if they lack the skills to use a printer correctly, then I suggest they write the pattern out by hand. Love your patterns and you have a wonderful blog, by the way!
ReplyDeleteCheers for that Lisa. You are a doll!
ReplyDeleteChris
What size needles would those be in a US size?
ReplyDeleteI have updated the pattern to state needle sizes in mm and in US.
ReplyDeleteBut really, every knitter should have a needle conversion table handy (bookmark on your computer or as I have, a needle gauge measure in metric and US with holes for measuring needles, and inches and centimeters for measuring your swatch. Awesome and necessary tool for your knitting bag!