Cashmere Hoody
I made this pullover with 100% cashmere that I found on eBay. I do not know the manufacturer, it was on industrial cones, so you won’t be able to duplicate the sweater, but working to gauge you can use your own DK yarn for this loose, casual sweater. I won’t tease you by saying that it feels incredible (oh, I guess I just did) but at least you can see that it looks pretty cool.... 
Yarn: DK weight that knits to gauge **** Check! Approximately 1700 yards. (14 balls of the yarn I used at 130 yard per 50 grams)
Needles, 3.5 mm (US 5), 4.0 mm (US 6) & Circular 4.0mm for finishing the hood
Gauge 17 sts and 26 rows = 4 inches in stocking stitch. *** you could knit the whole thing in stocking stitch if you are not comfortable in the eyelet stripe pattern*** gauge is the same either way!***
Finished measurements: chest 42 inches, length 29 inches, sleeves ¾ length.
Yarn: DK weight that knits to gauge **** Check! Approximately 1700 yards. (14 balls of the yarn I used at 130 yard per 50 grams)Needles, 3.5 mm (US 5), 4.0 mm (US 6) & Circular 4.0mm for finishing the hood
Gauge 17 sts and 26 rows = 4 inches in stocking stitch. *** you could knit the whole thing in stocking stitch if you are not comfortable in the eyelet stripe pattern*** gauge is the same either way!***
Finished measurements: chest 42 inches, length 29 inches, sleeves ¾ length.
Seed Stitch Pattern: Row 1: [knit one, purl one] repeat across all stitches. Row 2: purl the knits and knit the purls for the whole row.
Eyelet Stripe Pattern: Rows 1 – 11 : stocking stitch (knit the right side and purl the wrong side)
Row 12: ****Knit all stitches
Row 13: k3, [k1, yarn over, knit 2 together, k3] repeat until less than 3 remain... work any leftover stitches in knit (not every row will work out as an even amount of stitches! No worries!)
Row 14: purl all
Row 15: [ knit 2 together, yarn over, k4] repeat until a few remain, knit the rest.
Row 16: purl
Row 17: repeat row 13
Row 18:**** knit all stitches
Repeat rows 1 – 18 for the whole eyelet stripe pattern, paying attention to the *** rows, these are reversed to make a purl ridge to outline the eyelet section.
Back: With smaller needles, cast on 98 sts. Work in seed stitch pattern for 2 inches.
Change to larger needles, and begin the eyelet stripe pattern. Work this pattern over the 98 stitches until 19 inches has been done from the cast on edge.
Cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of next 2 rows. Continue in pattern until whole piece measures 29 inches, cast off all stitches.
Front: Work the same as the back until 23 inches have been done.
Begin placket neck: Right side facing, work 41 stitches, attach another ball of yarn, cast off center 8 stitches, and work the rest of the row. Working both sides at once, continue in pattern until piece measures 28 inches. For neck shaping: cast off 7 stitches at the neck edge of each half, then decrease one stitch at each neck edge 4 times. Work even until piece measures 29 inches, and cast off the shoulders.
Eyelet Stripe Pattern: Rows 1 – 11 : stocking stitch (knit the right side and purl the wrong side)
Row 12: ****Knit all stitches
Row 13: k3, [k1, yarn over, knit 2 together, k3] repeat until less than 3 remain... work any leftover stitches in knit (not every row will work out as an even amount of stitches! No worries!)
Row 14: purl all
Row 15: [ knit 2 together, yarn over, k4] repeat until a few remain, knit the rest.
Row 16: purl
Row 17: repeat row 13
Row 18:**** knit all stitches
Repeat rows 1 – 18 for the whole eyelet stripe pattern, paying attention to the *** rows, these are reversed to make a purl ridge to outline the eyelet section.
Back: With smaller needles, cast on 98 sts. Work in seed stitch pattern for 2 inches.
Change to larger needles, and begin the eyelet stripe pattern. Work this pattern over the 98 stitches until 19 inches has been done from the cast on edge.
Cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of next 2 rows. Continue in pattern until whole piece measures 29 inches, cast off all stitches.
Front: Work the same as the back until 23 inches have been done.
Begin placket neck: Right side facing, work 41 stitches, attach another ball of yarn, cast off center 8 stitches, and work the rest of the row. Working both sides at once, continue in pattern until piece measures 28 inches. For neck shaping: cast off 7 stitches at the neck edge of each half, then decrease one stitch at each neck edge 4 times. Work even until piece measures 29 inches, and cast off the shoulders.
Sleeves: With smaller needles, cast on 40 stitches and work 2 inches of seed stitch. Change to larger needles and work in the eyelet stripe pattern. Increase one stitch each side every fourth row until a maximum of 80 stitches. Work even until desired length of sleeve (mine is ¾) – about 13 inches. Cast off all stitches.
Sew shoulder seams. With circular needles, pick up 56 stitches evenly spaced around the neckline (leaving the placket opening for later). Place a marker at the center of these stitches. Work in plain old stocking stitch back and forth for 1.5 inches. Increase one stitch on each side of the marker every 6 rows, 9 times. Work even until hood measures 12 inches. Bind off all stitches and seam the top of hood.
Hood finish: Using circular needle, pick up 18 stitches along right side placket, 50 along right edge of hood opening (to the top of hood), 50 down the other side, and 18 to the bottom of the left placket opening. Work these stitches in seed stitch pattern, for 10 rows, then bind off all stitches. Overlap the seed stitch band in the placket opening (at the bottom edge) and stitch into place to finish.
Sew the sleeves into the armhole, and sew the side and under-sleeve seams.
Great sweater and pics :) Thanks for sharing the pattern!
ReplyDeleteWhat size is this pattern for? Looks great and I would like to knit this.
ReplyDeleteIf your gauge is exactly like mine, you will get a sweater that is 42 inches at the bustline. You can make it a bit smaller by having more stitches per 4 inches, or bigger by having less stitches per 4 inches. You need to swatch your yarn choice. Email me with the gauge and I can tell you about what size you will get.... Hope that helps, chris
ReplyDeleteI would like to knit this for my daughter who is crazy about Hoodies, even at 32!
ReplyDeleteI see the instructions but not the numbers of stitches to cast on. Am I missing something?
ReplyDeleteI posted the pattern stitches first... then below is where the actual pattern pieces start: Back, front, sleeves, etc
ReplyDeleteSorry for the confusion...
Chris
I believe your comment on January 19, 2013 is incorrect.
ReplyDeleteYou posted "You can make the sweater SMALLER by ADDING four more stitches per inch or
make the sweater LARGER by having LESS stitches per four inches.
Shouldn't that be reversed?
The concept of how gauge effects size always seems backwards, but I will attempt to clarify it further....
ReplyDeleteMy gauge is 17 sts to 4 inches in this sweater.
If you pick a yarn that knits a gauge of 21 sts for 4 inches, and you cast on the same number of stitches required for my sweater above, then you would have MORE stitches per inch, and therefore have about 4 inches LESS across the finished Back, (and 4 inches less on the front). So that would make a much SMALLER size. See? Seems backwards! You are not knitting MORE stitches, you are just knitting a different gauge that results in a smaller size.
The other way is to have a gauge that has LESS stitches per four inches (effectively a chunkier yarn would do that) and you would end up with a much larger sweater (more inches across the back when you cast on the same number of stitches)! (did I just blow anyone's mind?)
This is why gauge is important to get the right size, AND gauge can be used to intentionally make the finished product a bit smaller or bigger than the sample, while using the SAME number of cast on stitches. The math is magical!
I hope that helps clarify the concept. Embrace the gauge my friends... It is the key to successful sizing... :)
Chris