A magnificent, full length hooded cape, light as air and warm and fuzzy! Mostly one size, but you must pay attention to the length required if you want it to be just above the floor like mine. I will insist you find out the X measurement, and that is the length from the bottom of your elbow (bent and hanging straight down from your shoulder) to the ankle. This is the only variable for my pattern. It is where the opening for your arms will be and where the top, fitted part of the pattern begins. This pattern is not for beginners. There is a lot of seams to sew and some skill with sewing flat seams is a benefit.
Yarn: 20 balls of Elann Mode Mohair (or equivalent bulky mohair the knits to gauge. ) 50 gms approx 100m. Colour Wine.
Needles: 7 mm (US 10)
Gauge: 12 sts = 4 inches on 7.0 mm needles over stocking stitch
X - measurement: 38 inches from elbow to ankle.
Stocking stitch: Knit right side row, purl wrong side row.
Seed Stitch: Row 1: Knit one, purl one, repeat. Row 2: Purl the knits and knit the purls. Repeat row two for seed stitch.
Back: Cast on 90 stitches. Work in seed stitch for 3 inches. Then change to stocking stitch and work the back, decreasing one stitch each side every 6 inches until 80 stitches. Work even until back measures X. (place contrast yarn to mark this row)
Continue in stocking stitch, decreasing one stitch each side every 6 rows, until 70 stitches.
Then decrease one stitch each side every 4 rows until 56 stitches remain. Work even until you are 16 inches above the X marker. Cast off for shoulder: cast off 3 stitches at start of next 4 rows, then 4 stitches at start of next 4 rows, then 5 at start of next 2 rows. Cast off remaining 18 stitches.
Front right: Cast on 45 stitches, work seed stitch for 3 inches. Change to stocking stitch and work decreasing at the start of row only every 6 inches until 40 stitches. Work even until you reach the X measurement. (place marker) Work 28 stitches, attach a new ball of yarn and cast off 2 stitches, work last 10 stitches. Continue in stocking stitch working both sides of the armhole with different yarn balls*** at the same time*** start decreasing one stitch at start of every fourth row. Work opening for 8 inches, then cast on two stitches over the opening and use one ball again to close the hole. When 28 stitches are reached, work even until you are 16 inches above the X marker. On shoulder side: cast off 3, 3, 4, 4, 5 ... AND on the neck side cast off 6, then 3, then work even until all stitches are cast off.
Left Front: Work the same as right, reversing the directions.
Band: Cast on 30 stitches, work seed stitch for X measurement. (place marker) Decrease one stitch at the start of the row, every 6 rows, until 22 sts remain. Work even until 15 inches above the X marker (slightly less than the front edge, so that the band can be sewn with a slight stretch to support the long yardage). Cast off all stitches. Make another band the same (right and wrong sides look the same)
Hood: Cast on 50 stitches. Work 8 stitches in seed stitch, 34 in stocking stitch, and 8 in seed stitch. Next row, increase 20 stitches across the stocking stitch section only. continue in 8 seed, 54 stocking, 8 seed for 15 inches. Cast off all stitches. Sew top of hood seam.
Sew side seams up to top of shoulder on both sides. Sew bands to front edge stretching slightly to fit evenly and placing the decreased edges against the front edge.
Attach hood to neck opening, leaving about 4 inches of seed band open to overlap with pin or button.
Armholes: use single crochet to stabalize the edge closest to the center front. On the outside edge of armhole, pick up 24 stitches and work 2 inches of seed stitch then cast off. Sew the short edges down. (see photos of armhole)
Finish with a cute pin overlapping the upper bands near the neck, OR sew three buttons, and add matching crochet loops on other side to fasten. I will be finishing this one when I bring it to my sister in two weeks. Her choice!
Fabulous, just fabulous!
ReplyDeleteTHAT looks AMAZING and you are AMAZING !
ReplyDeleteIn my next life I want to make it. ;0)
Holy crap, that's a lot of knitting. It's fantastic!
ReplyDeleteThat is one beautiful cape!
ReplyDeleteJust Beautiful !
ReplyDeleteI ended up here via Knitting Pattern Central and the Spider Legs Scarf pattern. Now I have been on the tour of my knitting life, so many nice and beutiful designs you have made. The top of it all is the fantastic Cape!
ReplyDeleteI really love this pattern, but I'm not to sure about the mohair. Do you have a suggestion for something less fluffy that is about the same gauge that I could try knitting this cape in. I can't wait to try it and see how it turns out. :)
ReplyDeleteThe problem with anything less mohair is that it would likely be too heavy and droop too much. You could try anything that knits to gauge, and make a swatch large enough to wash and hang. See if it stretches. Then knit it about 6 inches shorter with the expectation of stretching to the ground by weight alone.... best suggestion. :)
ReplyDeleteI'm currently working on this, and I'm excited to see it come together, but.... I'm using the suggested needles, and well the spot that's supposed to be about 16 in from X to the shoulder point. Any suggestions about needle size? Right now I'm at about 20 in... with 60 stitches left on the needles. Kinda considering a size 5USA needles.
ReplyDeleteWhat is your gauge? Measure 4 inches across, count stitches (in the middle of the fabric)
ReplyDeleteIt's 14 stitches across.
ReplyDeleteI am also using yarn from Loops and Threads the Country Loom style for the chunky yarn. It's 100% acrylic.
ReplyDeleteI am not quite clear, are you too many stitches (like it will be too long?) it does not make sense when your gauge is tighter than mine. Unless the weight of your fabric is making it stretch lengthwise? You may want to use a smaller needle to make tighter fabric, but it still may stretch too much because it is heavier than mohair. Not sure if any of this helps.
ReplyDeleteChris
Hmm...Okay yes this does help some. I do think it's the weight of the yarn that is making it stretch lengthwise. Thanks, I think I will pull out smaller needles and probably shorten the length of 'X', to allow for the stretchage.
ReplyDeleteThank you for your help!
I really want to make this, but I'm allergic to mohair; do you have any suggestions for a yarn that won't drive me insane?
ReplyDeleteyou can try an all acrylic mock-mohair, ask your local yarn shop... the problem may be that it is heavier, and stretchier, and you will have to make it shorter, and let it stretch out to floor length. Be careful.
ReplyDeleteWhat is the total yard count? I'm attempting to ombre this for a wonderful nature ritual and I want to get the yards right. Thanks for helping!
ReplyDelete20 balls at 200 meters is 2000 meters total, or a bit MORE than that in yards. Gradually fading colours would be amazing. I would love to see a photo when done!
ReplyDeletechris
im collecting knitting patterns for my journal (for personal use), and ive decided to include this one, could you please explain what the "band" is?
ReplyDeletethank you
the band is the front band, sewn after the fact up the front edge. The separate piece allows the seam to stabilize the front... Won't stretch and droop. It is explained in the sew together paragraph.
ReplyDeletechris
So beautiful! I have some yarn that will be very tricky to use, but am determined to try it on my bulky knitting machine.
ReplyDeleteBut I would like it without the arm holes, would it be too much trouble for you to give me the instructions for one panel without arm holes?
Thank you,
Dj
Hi DJ, I just cropped out the armhole details.....
ReplyDeleteCast on 45 stitches, work seed stitch for 3 inches. Change to stocking stitch and work decreasing at the start of row only every 6 inches until 40 stitches. Work even until you reach the X measurement. (place marker) work even until you are 16 inches above the X marker.
Now start the shoulder decreases as the pattern states....
Hope that helps. Keep in mind, your yarn must be very light and airy, as this pattern will SAG with heavier yarn. I can't imagine a knitting machine will work with the kind of fluffy mohair that I used here. Good luck,
Chris
OMG!!! I wish I had the patience to make something of this magnitude. If you ever find a way to bottle your patience, (not to mention perserverence,) I want to order a case.
ReplyDeleteI love this! I've been looking for a pattern to knit a hooded cloak but all I've found were the smaller hooded cowls. I'm a bit daunted by this pattern because I've not done anything other than hats, scarves, and blankets. What is the skill level for this? and also on your increases and decreases, how do you do those?
ReplyDeleteVictoria, this is NOT a beginner pattern. Lots of math and experienced knitting, not to mention huge seams to sew. If you have a knitting group (yarn shop night?) you may be able to do this with coaching and encouragement.
ReplyDeleteCheers, Chris
Gorgeous, gorgeous! Thank you so much for your free patterns! This cape is what led me here and your blog is SO MUCH FUN!!
ReplyDeleteI'm just a beginner knitter (like, extremely beginner), but once I'm a lot better and know what I'm doing and such, I'm going to come back and make this cape for my brother (in black, of course). It's probably the only knitted thing I could make him that he'd actually wear. XD
ReplyDeleteHi. Having found a yarn that I hope will work for this (fluffy, but only 10% mohair, allergies being what they are), I have started the right front piece and got to where the casting off begins. I am a little confused about what I am supposed to do.
ReplyDelete"On shoulder side cast off 3,3,4,4,5... AND on the neck side cast off 6, then three, then work even until all stitches are cast off."
Does this mean I have to cast off 3 stitches at the shoulder side AND on the same row cast of 6 at the other end of the row? Likewise, on the second row, do I have to cast off 3 stitches at the shoulder side and then 3 at the other end of the same row, before I then go to doing the rest of the casting off on one side only?
It's just that I can't work out how I can cast off stitches at both ends of a row without cutting the yarn or having large loops to get back to the next row's new starting position.
If you have completed the back piece, your shoulder decreases should match each half, meaning the shoulder decreases are done every other row, 3, then 3, then 4, then 4, then 5. You start the neck decrease one row after the first shoulder decrease, thus starting the 6 cast off at the start of the row, then the 3 on the start of the next neckside row. Then the neck is left alone and the shoulder cast off should meet the neckedge at the top of the shoulder.
ReplyDeleteSo ALL the cast offs must be done at the start of the row (on the wrong side for right front shoulder decreases). I hope this helps picture the shaping, and makes it easier to explain. Sorry, words are hard to "show" you what it looks like...
Chris
I see. Thank you for the clarification, and for getting back to me so quickly. I really I appreciate it.
ReplyDeleteWow! That is wonderful. The color, the drape, the HOOD! I am so glad you are sharing it.
ReplyDeleteLove this pattern can it be scaled for larger sizes?
ReplyDeleteHi Katie, You could add 6 stitches to the back and 3 stitches to the fronts for EVERY 4 inches larger you want to make it. Just email me to send a printable copy and change the numbers.
ReplyDeleteIt is already a large, stretchy fabric and would likely fit up to XL as is, if you knit with a light chunky mohair to gauge. Knit your swatch, and block it and see how stretchy it is.
Hope that helps! Chris
Beautiful I'm going to make this thank you for sharing I love your patterns
ReplyDeleteHi there. I'm struggling to find suitable wool. Does anyone have a brand/wool I could look into getting ( none of my local wool shops have been able to help) thanks.
ReplyDeleteJo x
I have no suggestions at this moment, all my favourites have been discontinued. Anyone found any?
ReplyDeleteHi, beautiful romantic cloak and wonderful to see clear instructions rather than abbreviated gibberish!
ReplyDeleteI was wondering how one would make this in a shorter pixie kind of style, to elbow length without armholes?
Many thanks!
Hannah
You are one very talented lady! Thanks so much for sharing with us knitting addicts who just can't get enough. You are filling a great need! Cheers,
ReplyDeletethank you!
ReplyDeleteWow, this is absolutely gorgeous. I've lots of mohair in my stash & I hear it calling to me. Anyone who can't use mohair should look at DROPS yarns,they do a lovely brushed alpaca/silk that would be suitable. They have 30% off deals twice a year too... Tempting me to knit in dark green/red for Xmas.
ReplyDeleteGood day,
ReplyDeleteIs there any chance you could send me a printable version of the instructions? I love the look of this and want to give it a whirl!!
Keep creating wonderful new patterns!!
I would love to send you a copy.... Unknown Reader.... but how? If you can email a message to me (contact up on the right column) I will attach it back to you! Cheers
ReplyDeleteThis is a beautiful piece of work.
ReplyDelete