Denim
Blanket Coat
This loose
fitting blanket style coat is my first pattern involving STEEKS. I (probably like you) was afraid of steeks,
what with all the cut ends to finish off somehow. It seemed like it would all unravel as I
attempted to negotiate those cut rows!
This time though, the unraveled ends seemed perfect for the blanket
fringe I had in mind, so I gave it a go.
I love the results, and although it was a bit of work to make the
fringe, I did it in a way that was totally manageable, and will try to walk you
through in words and photos.
This is NOT
a beginner pattern.
Yarn: DK
weight that knits to gauge**** please knit a swatch and block and measure! Approximately 500 grams or 1200 yards. (I used a mill end cone of merino tape, so
exact yarn will not be available)
Needles: 24”
circular needles, 4mm or whatever hits the gauge.
2 stitch markers. Long stitch holder or spare circular needle
to hold stitches not being used.
Fringe twister (optional, you could hand braid the fringe)
Gauge: 17 stitches = 4 inches in stocking stitch
(after blocking) on 4mm needles. I knit
loosely so you may need 4.5 or 5mm to get my gauge.
Sizes: Small (fits 32-36”bust),[ Med/Large (fits 38 –
42”), XL (fits 44 – 48”)]
The body of
this coat is worked in the round until armholes, then the back and front are
worked separately. “Steeks” are then cut
and unraveled to create a front opening, and a fringe.
Body: With circular needles, cast on 12, place
marker, cast on 170[188,210], place marker, cast on 12. Carefully join without twisting, and begin
pattern:
Knit 12,
slip marker, seed stitch 170[188,210], slip marker, knit 12.
Repeat this
row until 1.5 inches of seed stitch are done.
Change to
body pattern: Row 1, 2, and 3, knit
every stitch.
Row 4, 5,
and 6: knit the 24 steeks stitches (the short section between the markers) and
purl the 170[188,210] body section stitches.
Repeat rows
1 through 6 for the horizontal rib pattern.
Work until
length from the beginning is 17”[18”, 19”], or length you want to the underarm.
Divide your
front from the back like this:
Beginning at first marker (continuing the ribbing pattern), work 45[50,56 ] cast off 6 stitches, work in pattern next 68[76, 86] stitches, cast off next 6 stitches
*place last 68 [76,86 ] stitches on stitch holder or spare circular
needles. Work in pattern until last
stitch marker.
Now you will
work the ribbing pattern and maintaining
the steek (24 stitches between the markers) without joining the circular
needles ….
You are
working from underarm to underarm and the steek stitches are in the MIDDLE of
the front.
Continue
ribbing pattern and the steek stitches are now stocking stitch (knit the right
side, purl the wrong side) Until you
have 9[9, 10] inches from the underarm split.
Next row: Cast off loosely until first marker, remove marker and work to
end of row. Next row: cast off loosely
until last marker: You now have only the
24 stitches between the marker “live”. Do not cast these off! Place these on a stitch holder, and place
back stitches (from holder ) back on circular needle.
Work these
stitches in the ribbing pattern until you have 9[9,10] inches done. Cast off all stitches loosely.
Sleeves:
Cast on
34[38,42] stitches. Work in seed stitch
for 1.5 inches. Change to stocking
stitch and work for 3 inches, INCREASING one stitch each end every four
rows. At 3 inches, work three repeats of
the 6 horizontal ribbing pattern. Return
to stocking stitch for the rest of the sleeve.
Always increase every four rows until you have 76[78, 82] stitches, then
continue without increasing until you have 17 inches from the start (or length
you would like for the sleeve to the underarm).
Cast off 5
stitches at the start of next two rows.
Cast off 6
stitches at the start of next two rows.
Cast off 8
stitches at the start of next two rows.
Cast off all
the rest of the stitches.
Steek
Cutting: (photos below) carefully, find the center of
the 24 steek stitches, and cut between the stitches all the way down the
front. Do not unravel yet.
Starting at
one end. Pull out two threads and using
the fringe twister, create a twisted fringe and tie a knot to hold it. OR if you do not have a fringe too, you can
pull three threads and braid them to the end, tying a knot there to hold it.
Work all the
way down one side and up the other.
Watch that you do not pull too hard, you want the edge of the body to
lie nice and flat. Take your time. It will be beautiful when done. The cast on row can be a bit tricky but
unravel it too. Braid four strands at the
end if there is one left alone.
Once the
fringing is done, you can sew a 4 inch shoulder seam, starting at the armhole.
Sew your
sleeve seam.
Pin the
sleeve evenly into the armhole and sew in place.
Gently wash
and block your new coat!
Fringe twister tool:
I definitely have to make this one to go with my jeans. You do such beautiful work and I love your patterns!! Thank you so much for sharing.
ReplyDelete
ReplyDeleteThank you for shRing your great patterns and your talent!
Is there a highly simplified version without steeks and fringe please as it would be great to do something like this intriguing pattern.
ReplyDeleteI would greatly appreciate as a fairly simple but interesting cardigan/jacket would be a practical challenge.
There may be many others like myself with who are home-based who may be interested but are not sure how to proceed.
I am comfortable with the Captca images which are not easy to see clearly. I am not so young and wish to point out this could be much simpler. Thank you.
As I stated this pattern is NOT a beginner pattern. However, there is some similarity to the Noro Chunky Silk Garden Coat, and if you use a plain coloured chunky yarn with that pattern, you may find it looks similar, but is easier to follow.
ReplyDeleteCheers, Chris
Love this design. I have a cone of a cotton dk tape yarn which won't steek very well. Couldnt I Do That pattern Flat And leave Out The Steek Stitches? I Would Have To Tie The Fringe On Separately I Guess. Do You Think That Woulkd Work?
ReplyDeleteHi Donna, To work this pattern flat, you need to omit the 12, and 12 (24 knit stitches that will be unravelled to make the fringe.)
ReplyDeleteYou should be able to work back and forth on the rest of the stitches, and have a nice finished front edge which you could attach a fringe (or not, just leave it as a normal edge)
Hope that helps.
Chris
Thank you for this fab pattern, I've just finished mine today :) I,too,was afraid to try steeking but after finding this pattern I had to give it a go. I've added a hood to mine and did the twisted fringes by hand which was easier than I expected.
ReplyDeleteThanks for sharing this pattern. I finished mine today and am very happy to have finally conquered my fear of steeking with this helpful blog. Ive added a hood, which worked out well and managed to make the twisted fringes by hand in the end :)
ReplyDelete