Friday, September 28, 2012

Million Hits Sweater




Million Hit Sweater.   Now with four sizes, because you asked....

Thanks to all my wonderful blog-fans, I have surpassed the million hit mark.  I am overwhelmed to be here, and never thought the blog would be more than just a place to store my patterns and photos, a scrapbook of my knitting passion.
This ribbed raglan sweater is really stretchy, and easy fitting.



Sizes:  Small (36” at bust), medium (40”), large (44), xlarge (48). These are the finished measurements if you have a true gauge, and measure the sweater without stretching.
Yarn:   Sport weight yarn that works to gauge*****  I used Codex by Nova, silver, 50gms are 126yards, 9[10, 12, 14] balls should do.
Needles:  4mm (US 6) straight , small circular 3.5mm (US 5) for neck ribbing.*** option for straight needles at neck – see pattern.
Gauge:  19 sts = 4 inches in RIB PATTERN, on 4mm needles.  Best to measure your swatch after blocking and adjust your needles or yarn to match this gauge.
RIB PATTERN:  row one (even number of stitches): knit one, purl one across.  Row two: purl all stitches.
Pattern:
BACK:  With 4mm needles, cast on 78[88,98,106] stitches.  Work in knit 2, purl 2 ribbing for 1.5 inches.  Increase 6 stitches over the last row of ribbing.  84[94,104,112] now on the needles.
Change to RIB PATTERN and work even for 14[15, 16, 17] inches from the start.
Start raglan shaping.  Row one:  (right side) knit two, knit two together, continue the rib pattern until 4 stitches remain, knit two together, knit two.
Row two: Purl all across.
Repeat these two rows until 42[46,50,54] sts remain.  Cast off all stitches.  (I like to cast off here, rather than put on holders, so that the neckline is more stable and NOT so stretchy.)
FRONT:  Work same as back until 52[56,60,64] remain in the raglan decrease stage.  Cast off center 30[34,38,42]sts, and working both sides at the same time: continue to do raglan decreases at the sides, AND knit two together at the neck edges, every right side row.  Purl the wrong sides.  You should end up with only one stitch on each side. Break yarn and thread through loop to secure.
SLEEVES:
Cast on 38[44,48,52] stitches.  Work in knit 2, purl 2 ribbing for 2 inches.  Increase 4 stitches over the last row of ribbing.
Change to RIB PATTERN, work up sleeve.  Increase one stitch at each side, every six rows until you have 72[78,88,92] stitches.  Continue even until sleeve is 15[15,15.5,16] inches from start.
Work raglan shaping: work the same as back shaping.  Work until 30[30,34,34] stitches remain.  Next row:  decrease row: Knit 2,[ knit 2 together, knit2]repeating bracket  across all stitches.  Cast off remaining 23[23,26,26] stitches.
Stitch the raglan seams, attaching sleeves to front and back.*if using straight needles for the neckline, leave one of the back – sleeve seams unsewn, and work back and forth instead of around.
With small circular needles, pick up 100[108,112,116]stitches evenly around the neckline opening.  This is not every stitch, as youneed a tiny bit of gathering to keep the neck from stretching too wide.  Work in knit 2, purl 2 ribbing, for 1.5 inches.  Cast off loosely.
Sew last raglan seam if left open for neck.
Sew side seams and sleeve seams.




33 comments:

  1. I love this blog, thank you

    ReplyDelete
  2. This is the pattern I've been looking for! Now any chance you have kids sizing for the same thing, I have 3 & 6 year old children

    ReplyDelete
  3. Love that you love this simple raglan pattern. As for kids sizes... Up until now, I have made pattens for adults, because that was what I have been knitting. I am just starting to work on baby items, because I am at that stage in life that the next gen' are having babies! It may be a few years before I have children sizes. I suggest searching allfreeknitting, and knittingpatterncentral.... Lots there.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Love that you love this simple raglan pattern. As for kids sizes... Up until now, I have made pattens for adults, because that was what I have been knitting. I am just starting to work on baby items, because I am at that stage in life that the next gen' are having babies! It may be a few years before I have children sizes. I suggest searching allfreeknitting, and knittingpatterncentral.... Lots there.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Hi. The sweater looks great. My mum has agreed to knit me one (I can't knit!), but she has asked if you know of an equivalent wool she can get in the uk please?
    Thank you

    ReplyDelete
  6. Unfortunately I do not know an equivalent yarn,but if you take the pattern (mostly the gauge) to a yarn outlet, they should be able to help you there. Best of luck, chris

    ReplyDelete
  7. what size are you wearing in the picture? Just want to get an idea of this size...
    Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  8. I am wearing medium. It fits a little loose (like a favourite sweatshirt). Pick the size that is about 2 - 3 inches larger than your chest measurement

    ReplyDelete
  9. Hi! Just found this pattern. Can't wIt to try it. But a quick question: I love turtlenecks...is it possible to turn this into a turtleneck if I keep knitting the neck until it is long enough to fold over or would it not work? Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  10. Hi Susan, yes, you could easily make a turtleneck by knitting the neckband as long as a turtle neck! Love to hear knitters making the pattern suit themselves.
    Cheers, Chris

    ReplyDelete
  11. Thanks! I'm going to try this. And I may try a lighter weight yarn. This should be fun!

    ReplyDelete
  12. Hi, I was just wondering how long this is from shoulder to hem? I am planning on knitting the small size. Thanks

    ReplyDelete
  13. Small is about 23 inches long, but the length until you start the raglan shaping, is the length to the underarm, so you can adjust longer or shorter in the body, before the raglan shaping begins!

    Chris

    ReplyDelete
  14. Hi, this is a great pattern - I'm making this for my mom's Christmas gift! I'm still somewhat of a beginner, so I was a little confused about the following instructions for the front. Could you explain this a little further? I'm just having a hard time imagining how to do this. Thank you!

    "Cast off center 30[34,38,42]sts, and working both sides at the same time: continue to do raglan decreases at the sides, AND knit two together at the neck edges, every right side row. Purl the wrong sides. You should end up with only one stitch on each side. Break yarn and thread through loop to secure."

    ReplyDelete
  15. Hi Katey. This is one of those patterns that is not for a beginner. But, your best bet is to find an experienced knitter to work through the first few rows of the neckline with you in person. Visually try to see the outside raglan decreases... just like the back, and at the SAME TIME as you perform those, you also have to make the neckline shaping! So you count the stitches, and cast off the middle stitches (the number that matches your size), then you have to work each half (with two balls of yarn separately) making the raglan outside edge, AND making a few neckline decreases too. It IS complicated, so that puts this pattern in the experienced range, but you could do it with a little coaching in person. Hope that helps, Chris

    ReplyDelete
  16. Hi, How do you go from having 4 sts with the raglan shaping on the back, then repeat these two rows until 42+ sts remain?

    Start raglan shaping. Row one: (right side) knit two, knit two together, continue the rib pattern until 4 stitches remain, knit two together, knit two.
    Row two: Purl all across.
    Repeat these two rows until 42[46,50,54] sts remain. Cast off all stitches. (I like to cast off here, rather than put on holders, so that the neckline is more stable and NOT so stretchy.)

    ReplyDelete
  17. Sorry to take so long to reply... since I last checked in, I have become a Grandma again, and have been over at my daughter's helping!

    I think, Jo-Anne, that you are mis-reading this raglan instructions.
    ROW 1: (all the same row) you work across the row until there are 4 sts left un-worked. This does not mean there are only 4 sts left after decreasing all the other stitches.
    You are decreasing 2 sts per right side row, one at each side withing the 4 edge stitches. The gradual decrease is what makes the raglan shaping.

    I hope this helps, Cheers, Chris

    ReplyDelete
  18. Would it be possible for you to give stitches for a 54" bust? It's such a lovely garment. And congratulations on being a grandma again!

    ReplyDelete
  19. Hi Noldy. The easiest way to convert this pattern to 54" bust, is to alter the gauge. Doing the math: Half of 54 (width of back or front) is 27. Using the largest size listed above, there are 112 stitches across the back. Divide 112 by 27, (stitches per inch) then times 4 inches for the full gauge of 17 (rounding up)

    What this means is that if you find a yarn that knits to 17 stitches over 4 inches (make your swatch properly - at least 6 -7 inches wide and long in the rib stitch pattern, preblock, then measure)

    If you meet that gauge, then knit the largest set of numbers in the pattern, and you will have the size you want!

    Math is awesome!

    Cheers, Chris

    ReplyDelete
  20. You're awesome, thanks Chris! xxx

    ReplyDelete
  21. I am a small lady and usually have difficulty with modern patterns being the correct size I knitted small perfect fit. Also knitted a matching detachable cowl so many compliments when wearing this . Just starting another one. Love it. Thank you so much. From Scotland.

    ReplyDelete
  22. Four, yes four, of these lovely sweaters so far this year, in between beanies and socks, and it's only April. Love this pattern, thank you so much for sharing it.

    I knit an extra inch to the sleeves and body as my family prefer the 'longer' look, however, this doesn't detract from the neatness of the sweater at all.

    For a perfect neckline I use Knitca's method for spacing the stitches so I am going to be bold and post a link to her method here: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=IALG59spT84

    Back to sweater number 5. Again, thank you Chris!

    ReplyDelete
  23. Hi Jacqs, that was a wonderful comment. I love to hear that my patterns are used to success, but FOUR!

    Thanks for making my day.

    chris

    ReplyDelete
  24. Thank you for this wonderful pattern. I have knitted two for myself and will knit another for a friend as she loved mine so much.

    ReplyDelete
  25. Hi, thanks for the pattern, I just came across it :)

    Is it possible to knit this from the top down?

    ReplyDelete
  26. It would be possible to knit from the top down. If you are experienced with that method of knitting, you may be able to convert it for your own project. I, personally, like to knit in separate pieces, so that the fit is more controlled, and a seam often creates more stability in very stretchy knit fabric, compared to knit in the round with no sewing. To each their own, I say.
    Thanks for your comment. Chris

    ReplyDelete
  27. Hey Chris,

    I'd like to consider myself an intermediate knitter and am now attempting to shape the front neckline. Based on your instructions I have cast off three stitches on each frontside row, but given I am also decreasing two stitches on each frontside row the maths isn't making sense. But have finally figured it out and think it might help to include these in your instructions.

    When you are at the neckline shaping subtract the number of cast off stitches from your remaining stitches, i.e. 64 - 42 = 20 and divide by 2 for each side. This means that you need to spread out your cast offs over 5 frontside rows on each side, meaning you should cast off 22 / 5 = 4 with a remaining 2 on each side. For example you can cast off 5 on the first and second frontside rows, and 4 on the remaining 3 frontside rows.

    Hope this makes sense!

    Anyway I will now unknit my neckline for the second time >_< and put this to the test.

    Thanks for the pattern by the way, looking forward to the finished article.

    Em

    ReplyDelete
  28. Hi Emily. It's funny, because I happen to be knitting this pattern with a Noro yarn right now, and it is actually fresh in my mind!
    I am not sure why it was not working for you. None of the decreases are more than just knit two together, except for the centre neck cast off on the front. But, if your way of working the neck works for you, then kudos for rethinking the neck. As always I love it when my patterns are a jump start to really thinking about pattern making. Let me know how it turns out.
    I love feed back. It keeps me interested in patterns I knit long ago!
    Happy knitting, Chris

    ReplyDelete
  29. Thanks Chris.. it did work, now knitting my first sleeve. This is the first time I've knitted anything other than a beanie or a scarf, which probably explains my confusion! I think the key is to understand what you're knitting before you do it, counting stitches and so on. I think I'm well on my way to achieving some of my knitting aspirations.

    ReplyDelete
  30. Wow. Ambitious first garment. I am honoured! Thanks for the nice feedback.
    Chris

    ReplyDelete
  31. Hi Chris, finally sewed this up and completed the neckline
    https://instagram.com/p/Bolo1ePjHtL/

    ReplyDelete
  32. Hi Chris,
    I am a fellow Canadian knitter who is now in Latin America! I have some of your beautiful patterns, with the Merlot Cape in que. I appreciate your creativity and don't understand how you do it all...work, design, knit, family, sports, etc.! I like how you respond to people when they reach out to you for help with patterns. People really appreciate that!
    Let me know how I can support you by becoming your 1,000,001!

    Take care,

    Cyndi I.

    ReplyDelete
  33. Hi Cyndi! Welcome to my blog! As of today (end of October 2018) I have MORE than 4 million hits! I love to hear from knitters, and post all my comments for other readers to see. Keep knitting, and enjoy all my patterns.
    Cheers, Chris

    ReplyDelete