New Game...

I have a link to a free trial game on iTunes.... Kumundrum is a puzzle game that is fun and addictive. I would ask that all of you that have iphone, ipad, and ipod touch, PLEASE download and try it. If you enjoy it, please rate it on iTunes. This game is the first (of many we hope) that my son's new venture, Hope This Works Games, has produced. I think it's great (what mom wouldn't) but the real test is if real folks try it and play it and love it. Leave a comment here too if you would like.
I know this is not about knitting, but we occasionally need a break from knitting (rarely) and I hope you will indulge me on this request. Please pass on this link to other friends and family who do the ipod/pad/phone thing, and lets make this game viral! Thank you from my heart!

Excellent Knee Highs

Yarn: Sock yarn designed to knit on 2.75mm needles. (US 2) - 150grams (about three balls of sock yarn)

Needles: set of four 2.75 double point needles (I like bamboo)

More: four stitch markers

Cast on 76 stitches, and divide on three needles as such: 28 on first needle, 20 on second and 28 on third needle. Join to knit in the round (don’t twist it!) and work in [K2, P2] ribbing for 2 inches. Change to [k3, p1] ribbing and work for 6 inches.

Decrease row: k3, p1, place marker, knit 2 together, k1, p1, [k3, p1]repeat 3 times, place marker, knit 2 together, k1, p1 [k3, p1] repeat 7 times, place marker, knit 2 together, k1, p1, [k3, p1]repeat 3 times, place last marker, knit 2 together, k1, p1, [k3, p1] one time (end of 3^rd needle).

Work stitches exactly as established, slipping the markers for 5 rows.

*Decrease again: work to marker, after each marker knit 2 together, work like this to end of row.

Work 5 rows even.*

Repeat between * and *two more times!

You now have 60 stitches on the needles. Continue to work in the round until total length beyond last decrease is about 6 inches.

Heel: Put half the stitches (30 ) on one needle by knitting next 15 sts, and transfer previous 15 onto the front of this needle. Rearrange the other 30 sts onto two needles with 15 each. These 2 needles will be ignored for a while.

Working on the 30 st needles, Purl (wrong side) across. Right side: [Slip one, K 1] repeat across row. Work these two rows until repeated 15 times. (the heel should be almost square and be about 2.5 inches).

With right side facing you will now do the magic that is a heel turn! K17, K2tog, K1, turn to wrong side facing. Slip one, P5, P2tog, P1, turn. Slip one, Knit to the stitch before the gap (the space between the slipped stitch and the old heel stitches). Knit 2 tog (thus closing the gap and picking up the last slipped stitch and the next old heel stitch), K1, turn. Slip one, Purl to st before gap and P2tog over gap, P1, turn. Repeat these two rows, until all the old heel stitches are involved and worked.

Right side again: Knit across heel, pick up 15 sts up the side of the heel (put these on needle 1).

Work next 30 sts on needle 2, AND work them in the K3, P1 ribbing, as they are already still looking at you. Pick up 15 sts on the other side of the heel and knit half of the bottom of the heel sts. (needle 3). Check and make Needle 1 and Needle 3 have the same number of sts on each, adjust if needed.

Round ONE: Knit down Needle 1 to 3 sts before end, K2tog, K1, Needle 2: work in K3, P1 pattern as established, Needle 3: K1, K2tog, knit to end of needle. Round TWO: Knit needle 1, Pattern needle 2, Knit needle 3. Repeat these two rounds, until back to 60 sts (15, 30, 15). Then continue in stocking stitch for the under foot and ribbing stitch for the top of foot, until about 6 inches from the picked up stitches of the heel (or until sock is about 1.5 inches short of your foot length). Toe: round 1: Needle 1: Knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. Needle 2 K1, K2tog, K across to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. Needle 3: K1, K2tog, K across to end. Round 2, Knit all sts without decrease. Continue to knit these 2 rounds until 16 sts are left. Graft two rows of eight sts.

Do it all again for sock two.

Cast on 60 stitches and join in the round. Knit for 1.5 inches in K2, P2 ribbing. Change to K3, P1 ribbing, and continue to work in the round until total length is about 7 inches.

Heel: Put half the stitches (30 ) on one needle by knitting next 15 sts, and transfer previous 15 onto the front of this needle. Rearrange the other 30 sts onto two needles with 15 each. These 2 needles will be ignored for a while.

Working on the 30 st needles, Purl (wrong side) across. Right side: [Slip one, K 1] repeat across row. Work these two rows until repeated 15 times. (the heel should be almost square and be about 2.5 inches).

With right side facing you will now do the magic that is a heel turn! K17, K2tog, K1, turn to wrong side facing. Slip one, P5, P2tog, P1, turn. Slip one, Knit to the stitch before the gap (the space between the slipped stitch and the old heel stitches). Knit 2 tog (thus closing the gap and picking up the last slipped stitch and the next old heel stitch), K1, turn. Slip one, Purl to st before gap and P2tog over gap, P1, turn. Repeat these two rows, until all the old heel stitches are involved and worked.

Right side again: Knit across heel, pick up 15 sts up the side of the heel (put these on needle 1).

Work next 30 sts on needle 2, AND work them in the K3, P1 ribbing, as they are already still looking at you. Pick up 15 sts on the other side of the heel and knit half of the bottom of the heel sts. (needle 3). Check and make Needle 1 and Needle 3 have the same number of sts on each, adjust if needed.

Round ONE: Knit down Needle 1 to 3 sts before end, K2tog, K1, Needle 2: work in K3, P1 pattern as established, Needle 3: K1, K2tog, knit to end of needle. Round TWO: Knit needle 1, Pattern needle 2, Knit needle 3. Repeat these two rounds, until back to 60 sts (15, 30, 15). Then continue in stocking stitch for the under foot and ribbing stitch for the top of foot, until about 6 inches from the picked up stitches of the heel (or until sock is about 1.5 inches short of your foot length). Toe: round 1: Needle 1: Knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. Needle 2 K1, K2tog, K across to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. Needle 3: K1, K2tog, K across to end. Round 2, Knit all sts without decrease. Continue to knit these 2 rounds until 16 sts are left. Graft two rows of eight sts.

Do it all again for sock two.

These are ribbed throughout so that they stay up really well.

Beautiful Fall Photos....

Check out my golf course!

The leaves are just starting to show the best colours. Reds and oranges and yellows. Right now there are only a few leaves on the ground, so the trees look their fall best.
Many are just like this photo with red tips on a green tree.
I am just finishing a pair of knee high socks. If you are interested in the pattern, I will be posting it tomorrow. It is a variation of the best sock pattern ever, but the numbers start a bit bigger to slide over the calf to the knee.

Mohair Multi-Coat

This is a quick knit. You can use any bulky mohair that knits to gauge. This one is knit from four different colour-ways of Mode Mohair from Elann - mine was the self striping version now out of stock, but there are lots of the solid colours left at Elann! Just 8 skeins (50gms - 100 m).

Needles: 7mm (US 10.5)
Gauge: 11 sts = 4 inches.
Size: Large (chest = 48 inches, length = 30 inches)

Back: cast on 60 sts, and work in seed stitch for 2 inches. Change to stocking stitch and work for 21 inches. Cast off 5 sts at start of next two rows. Continue even until armhole measures 9 inches, cast off all stitches.
Left Front: cast on 35 stitches. work seed stitch for 2 inches. With right side facing, work first 30 stitches in stocking stitch, and the last 5 stitches in seed stitch(front band). Continue to work up front with 5 stitches in seed at the front band, and the rest in stocking. Work such until 21 inches, cast off 5 stitches from the armhole side only. Work even again (keeping the seed stitch band) until 5 inches above the armhole. Cast off 8 sts (including seed band) at the center front neckline side only. Cast off 3 more at next neckline row, and one stitch FIVE more times. Work even until 30 inches from start and cast off all stitches.
Right Front: Make same as back (reversed shaping) BUT add button holes: At 3" in the 5 seed stitch band: work 1 stitch, knit 2 together , yarn over, knit 2 together, continue along the row. On the wrong side in the seed stitch band: seed stitch for one stitch, knit in the front and back of the yarn over, seed stitch the last two stitches. Continue to seed stitch the band.... placing another button hole 5 inches above the last one, repeated until 5 holes are spaced along the band.

Sleeves: cast on 30, work seed stitch for 2 inches, then stocking stitch for the rest: Increase one stitch every 6 rows until 48 stitches , then work even until 20 inches from start. Cast off all stitches. Make another!

Sew shoulders, pick up 60 around neckline and work seed stitch for 1.5 inches. Cast off loosely.
Sew sleeves into armhole space, and sew side and arm seams.
Mix your colours anyway you want or stitch it in one colour!

Spot the little blue bird in the photos! She loves mohair!

Lots of Jackets!

I have been sewing up a storm. For any of you who pop over to my sewing blog, you will already know that I have been making suits for my sister. I also made the fabulous CAPE for her (yes, she knows she is very special to me!). The deal is that I make the suits, and she will fly me in for fittings! (She lives in Winnipeg and I am in southern Ontario!) I will be travelling this weekend and we will do the fittings and shop for yarn and eat turkey (it is Thanksgiving in Canada). This is one of the suit jackets, but you can see them all HERE if you scroll down.

The other jacket I want to show you is a mohair multi-coloured one.... This yarn was purchased by my friend Jane to make shawls, but was TOO chunky and I quickly snapped them up with this coat in mind. Knit on 7mm needles it was a really quick knit and I will post the pattern soon.

It is knit of 4 different colours of self striping mohair from Elann, so it has almost every colour somewhere on the coat. I had some bright red buttons in my stash, and they finish it perfectly.

Merlot Hooded Cape

A magnificent, full length hooded cape, light as air and warm and fuzzy! Mostly one size, but you must pay attention to the length required if you want it to be just above the floor like mine. I will insist you find out the X measurement, and that is the length from the bottom of your elbow (bent and hanging straight down from your shoulder) to the ankle. This is the only variable for my pattern. It is where the opening for your arms will be and where the top, fitted part of the pattern begins. This pattern is not for beginners. There is a lot of seams to sew and some skill with sewing flat seams is a benefit.

Yarn: 20 balls of Elann Mode Mohair (or equivalent bulky mohair the knits to gauge. ) 50 gms approx 100m. Colour Wine.
Needles: 7 mm (US 10)
Gauge: 12 sts = 4 inches on 7.0 mm needles over stocking stitch
X - measurement: 38 inches from elbow to ankle.
Stocking stitch: Knit right side row, purl wrong side row.
Seed Stitch: Row 1: Knit one, purl one, repeat. Row 2: Purl the knits and knit the purls. Repeat row two for seed stitch.

Back: Cast on 90 stitches. Work in seed stitch for 3 inches. Then change to stocking stitch and work the back, decreasing one stitch each side every 6 inches until 80 stitches. Work even until back measures X. (place contrast yarn to mark this row)
Continue in stocking stitch, decreasing one stitch each side every 6 rows, until 70 stitches.
Then decrease one stitch each side every 4 rows until 56 stitches remain. Work even until you are 16 inches above the X marker. Cast off for shoulder: cast off 3 stitches at start of next 4 rows, then 4 stitches at start of next 4 rows, then 5 at start of next 2 rows. Cast off remaining 18 stitches.

Front right: Cast on 45 stitches, work seed stitch for 3 inches. Change to stocking stitch and work decreasing at the start of row only every 6 inches until 40 stitches. Work even until you reach the X measurement. (place marker) Work 28 stitches, attach a new ball of yarn and cast off 2 stitches, work last 10 stitches. Continue in stocking stitch working both sides of the armhole with different yarn balls*** at the same time*** start decreasing one stitch at start of every fourth row. Work opening for 8 inches, then cast on two stitches over the opening and use one ball again to close the hole. When 28 stitches are reached, work even until you are 16 inches above the X marker. On shoulder side: cast off 3, 3, 4, 4, 5 ... AND on the neck side cast off 6, then 3, then work even until all stitches are cast off.

Left Front: Work the same as right, reversing the directions.

Band: Cast on 30 stitches, work seed stitch for X measurement. (place marker) Decrease one stitch at the start of the row, every 6 rows, until 22 sts remain. Work even until 15 inches above the X marker (slightly less than the front edge, so that the band can be sewn with a slight stretch to support the long yardage). Cast off all stitches. Make another band the same (right and wrong sides look the same)

Hood: Cast on 50 stitches. Work 8 stitches in seed stitch, 34 in stocking stitch, and 8 in seed stitch. Next row, increase 20 stitches across the stocking stitch section only. continue in 8 seed, 54 stocking, 8 seed for 15 inches. Cast off all stitches. Sew top of hood seam.

Sew side seams up to top of shoulder on both sides. Sew bands to front edge stretching slightly to fit evenly and placing the decreased edges against the front edge.
Attach hood to neck opening, leaving about 4 inches of seed band open to overlap with pin or button.

Armholes: use single crochet to stabalize the edge closest to the center front. On the outside edge of armhole, pick up 24 stitches and work 2 inches of seed stitch then cast off. Sew the short edges down. (see photos of armhole)


Finish with a cute pin overlapping the upper bands near the neck, OR sew three buttons, and add matching crochet loops on other side to fasten. I will be finishing this one when I bring it to my sister in two weeks. Her choice!

Last Stretch...

I am on the final approach to completion of the CAPE! Photos now would be a big mound of mohair, so I won't spoil the reveal at this point. I decided that more seams (I know - you hate to sew seams) would be the best to support the five feet of length and keep it from stretching. So to that end, I have made the hood and the front bands separate to allow seams that stabilise the whole piece. The feel and the look of it are perfect! Can't wait to finish and show you (specially you, sis')
Stay tuned... eta next Wednesday!