Tuesday, March 10, 2009

Merino Color Baby Rib Twist Pullover

Here is a big project. It is knit on 3.5mm needles (US 4) so takes quite a bit of patience to finish. The basic pattern is an 8 by 8 ribbing, with a cable shift after a set number of rows. This is done on the lower half only and creates a more snug fit there. The rest is plain 8 by 8 ribbing and simple shaping to finish with a wide scooping neckline finished with one inch 2x2 ribbing.


Yarn: Stampato Color Baby (100% Austalian Merino) color 806 greens with flecks. 9 balls were used for this generous size 40 inch chest, but it will easily stretch in this yarn to fit 44 inches. Other yarns designed for baby knits on fine needles would likely work, just knit a swatch to test the gauge!
Needles: 3.0 mm (US 3) for ribbing, 3.5mm (US 4) for body
Gauge: 24 sts and 34 rows in stocking stitch.
Size: This fits 10-12 (38-40 inch chest), but in this yarn it would easily stretch to fit 44"
Notes: Seed Stitch over even number of stitches: row 1: k1, p1, repeated across, row 2: k1, p1 repeated (knit the purls and purl the knits). Cable 4 right: place next 2 sts on cable needle, and put to back of work. Knit next 4 sts, then seed stitch 2(knit, Purl) from cable needle. Cable 4 left: place next 4 sts on cable needle and hold to front of work, then seed stitch (knit, purl) next 2 sts, then knit 4 from cable needle.

Back: With smaller needles, cast on 108, and work in K2 P2 ribbing for 2.5 inches. On the last row of ribbing, increase 12 sts evenly spaced (120 sts).
Establish the pattern as follows: K8, [Seed Stitch next 8, K8] repeat brackets across to end.
Work as established, with stocking stitch band alternating with seed stitch band for 14 rows.
Row 15(right side): k4, Cable 4 left, seed stitch 4, cable 4 right [ cable 4 left, seed stitch 4, cable 4 right]- repeat bracket to last 4 sts, k4.
Row 16: Purl 4, seed stitch 2 [purl 4, seed stitch 4] to last 10 sts, purl 4, seed 2, purl 4.
Row 17: K4, seed stitch 2, cable 4 left, cable 4 right, [seed 4, cable 4 left, cable 4 right] repeat to last 6sts, seed stitch 2, k4.
Row 18: Purl 4, seed 4, purl 8, [seed stitch 8, Purl 8] repeat to last 8 sts, seed 4, purl 4.
Rows 19 - 32: work as established stocking stitch 4, seed stitch 4, stocking stitch 8, [seed stitch 8, stocking stitch 8] repeat to last 8 then seed stitch 4, stocking stitch 4.
Next 4 rows, move the cables back... Row 33: k4, seed 2, cable 4 right, [cable 4 left, seed 4, cable 4 right,] repeat to last 12 sts, then cable 4 left, seed 2, k4.
Row 34: p4, seed 2, [purl 4, seed 4] repeat to last 10 sts, p4, seed 2, purl 4.
Row 35: k4, cable 4 right, seed 4, [cable 4 left, cable 4 right, seed 4] repeat to 10 left. Cable 4 left, k4.
Row 36: p8, [seed 8, p8] repeat to end.
This gets you back to row one, and the honeycomb pattern is complete, and you repeat the whole lot, until 12 inches from start, or thereabouts, as long as you end at an 8 by 8 ribbing spot!
Continue up the back in plain 8 stocking stitch, 8 seed stitch ribbing, until 16 inches. Decrease 6 stitches at start of next two rows, then one more at start of next two, for armhole shaping. Work even in 8 by 8, until 9 inches of armhole have been worked. Cast off all stitches.

Front: Work same for back until neckline: when front is 22 inches total, work 33 sts, join a second ball of yarn and cast off next 40 sts, work 33 stitches on the right side of neck. Continue on both sides of square neckline until length is same as the back, then cast off both shoulders.
Sleeves: Cast on 50 sts with smaller needles, work in 2 x 2 ribbing for 3 inches, increasing 6 sts over the last row. With larger needles, K8, [seed8, k8] across row. Continue in established stocking stitch, seed stitch bands, increasing one at each side of sleeve every 6th row until 76 stitches have been worked. Keep the increases in stocking stitch. Continued even until 18 inches from start. Work sleeve cap: Cast off 3 stitches at start of next 14 rows, cast off 6 sts at start of next 4 rows, cast off last 10... done. Repeat for other sleeve.
Sew shoulder seams. With 3mm needles (short circulars or double points) pick up 96 around neckline and work in k2 p2 ribbing for one inch, then cast off all.
Sew shoulder seams, and then underarm and side seams. Finish all ends. Done.


****here is a photo of a readers version of this pattern!  Thank you Java!  Added Dec 2014.

21 comments:

Unknown said...

HI, it's beautiful!

Unknown said...

HI, it's beautiful!

April E said...

You are so incredibly talented. I am so jealous. I love all your sweaters but I cannot for the life of me sew pieces together and they look right once I'm done. Can you design some of these beautiful sweaters where you knit from the top down or bottom up where there is no sewing involved? All your items are so lovely. I really want to make them all but if I see "sew this to that" then I sadly turn away.

chris said...

One of the reasons (and there are MANY) that my friends are in our knitting group, is that anything you are not very good at, you can either learn to improve, OR job it out to another knitter. I can't count the number of sweaters I have sewn up for my girls!! (while they wind my skeins into balls.... or some other task, we trade off) Please do not let the sewing STOP the knitting!!!
Chris

Kristina said...

Love the sweater! I think the style would look great on me, downplaying a big bust but snugging up on the lower part. My problem, though, is a 47" bust. If you ever add a pattern adjustment, I'd love to know about it. I'm not experienced enough to make those adjustments myself.

Anonymous said...

Kristina I am in the same boat as you, love this but am a bigger size.
I know you can get books and online instructions how to adjust patterns...
If I ever try this I will post here the result

Unknown said...

I just made this sweater and was gonna post a selfie, but there's no option for that. Love the sweater and it looks great on me!

chris said...

Jana, I would love to have a photo. If you could attach it to my email (listed on the right side) I will upload it as an addition to the blog page (with your permission). I rarely get photos sent to me of finished articles, and this one is probably the most complicated pattern! Well done
Chris

chris said...

Java, thanks for the photo, just added it to this page. Looks like it fits perfectly!
Cheers, Chris

JO JO said...

I think I'[m missing something. Row 15 on back seems to have the wrong number of stitches. The bracketed ones add up to 12. Before the brackets is 16 with after the brackets 4 which adds up to 20. Subracting 20 from the 120 on the needles leaves 100. There is no way the bracket stitiches of 12 will add up to 100. What am I figuring wrongly?

chris said...

Hi Unknown. I think the problem lies in the "cable 4 right and left". These are actually 6 stitch cables. So the math would use 6 stitches where it says "cable 4 right", and the numbers work.
Hope that clears it up a bit for you.
Cheers, Chris

JO JO said...

So the row would be k4, cable 6 left, seed stitch 4, cable 6 right ( cable 4 left, seed stitch 4, cable 4 right) - repeat bracket to last 4 stis, k4?

JO JO said...

I think I'[m missing something. Row 15 on back seems to have the wrong number of stitches. The bracketed ones add up to 12. Before the brackets is 16 with after the brackets 4 which adds up to 20. Subracting 20 from the 120 on the needles leaves 100. There is no way the bracket stitiches of 12 will add up to 100. What am I figuring wrongly?

JO JO said...

So Row 15 would be k4, cable 6 left, seed stitch 4, cable 6 right, ( calbe 4 left, seed stitch 4, cable 4 right) - repeat bracket to last 4 sts, k4.

The cable 6's would not be in the brackets??

chris said...

One more time, Jo Jo.... sorry I am making it difficult to understand....

Under NOTES at the top of the pattern: I describe what my pattern calls Cable 4 right, and cable 4 left. They all mean move 4 stitches. across two stitches. They all use 6 stitches to perform the cable.
The numbers work when you think of them that way.
Please take it to a yarn group or an experienced knitter to work through the pattern if you are still having difficulties. It is not a beginner pattern, for sure, and it is really hard to show you in words. Better to see it in person.

Again, I hope that helps. Chris

The Journey of Post 16 said...

Hi, I love this pattern and would love to knit it for my sister! What would I need to do if I wanted to make this in a slightly smaller size? Maybe a U.K. Size 6-8?

chris said...

Hi Laura, if you can find a fine weight yarn and choose 3mm needles so that your swatch gauge measures 27 stitches to four inches, this will result in a sweater that is approx 36 inches at the chest. Should work. So do your swatch test, and find the needle size to get you there. Hope that helps
chris

Mummyn said...

I am going to try this in a beautiful chunky yarn I have, using bigger needles can't wait to try it x thank you for the pattern x

Mummyn said...

I'm going to make in a chunky yarn I have on bigger needles, can't wait to see how it comes out x thank you for the pattern x

Anonymous said...

Hi, I LOVE this sweater, but like others I need a larger size. Are you ever going to adjust this pattern for larger sizes? I am going to go to my local yarn store & learn how to do this. I have seen your lovely patterns, but this is my absolute favorite.

Kristina said...

I come back to admire this sweater after every comment and would still love to try it in a larger size. Would increasing in increments of 8 stitches for the cast on work? Or would I need to do 16 instead for the pattern to come out correctly? Or is it just not that simple, which is why you only have the one size? I saw that you recommended a smaller needle size to someone who wanted it smaller, but I'm thinking a bigger needle size might make the stitches too open.