Thursday, September 22, 2011

Merlot Hooded Cape

A magnificent, full length hooded cape, light as air and warm and fuzzy! Mostly one size, but you must pay attention to the length required if you want it to be just above the floor like mine. I will insist you find out the X measurement, and that is the length from the bottom of your elbow (bent and hanging straight down from your shoulder) to the ankle. This is the only variable for my pattern. It is where the opening for your arms will be and where the top, fitted part of the pattern begins. This pattern is not for beginners. There is a lot of seams to sew and some skill with sewing flat seams is a benefit.

Yarn: 20 balls of Elann Mode Mohair (or equivalent bulky mohair the knits to gauge. ) 50 gms approx 100m. Colour Wine.
Needles: 7 mm (US 10)
Gauge: 12 sts = 4 inches on 7.0 mm needles over stocking stitch
X - measurement: 38 inches from elbow to ankle.
Stocking stitch: Knit right side row, purl wrong side row.
Seed Stitch: Row 1: Knit one, purl one, repeat. Row 2: Purl the knits and knit the purls. Repeat row two for seed stitch.

Back: Cast on 90 stitches. Work in seed stitch for 3 inches. Then change to stocking stitch and work the back, decreasing one stitch each side every 6 inches until 80 stitches. Work even until back measures X. (place contrast yarn to mark this row)
Continue in stocking stitch, decreasing one stitch each side every 6 rows, until 70 stitches.
Then decrease one stitch each side every 4 rows until 56 stitches remain. Work even until you are 16 inches above the X marker. Cast off for shoulder: cast off 3 stitches at start of next 4 rows, then 4 stitches at start of next 4 rows, then 5 at start of next 2 rows. Cast off remaining 18 stitches.

Front right: Cast on 45 stitches, work seed stitch for 3 inches. Change to stocking stitch and work decreasing at the start of row only every 6 inches until 40 stitches. Work even until you reach the X measurement. (place marker) Work 28 stitches, attach a new ball of yarn and cast off 2 stitches, work last 10 stitches. Continue in stocking stitch working both sides of the armhole with different yarn balls*** at the same time*** start decreasing one stitch at start of every fourth row. Work opening for 8 inches, then cast on two stitches over the opening and use one ball again to close the hole. When 28 stitches are reached, work even until you are 16 inches above the X marker. On shoulder side: cast off 3, 3, 4, 4, 5 ... AND on the neck side cast off 6, then 3, then work even until all stitches are cast off.

Left Front: Work the same as right, reversing the directions.

Band: Cast on 30 stitches, work seed stitch for X measurement. (place marker) Decrease one stitch at the start of the row, every 6 rows, until 22 sts remain. Work even until 15 inches above the X marker (slightly less than the front edge, so that the band can be sewn with a slight stretch to support the long yardage). Cast off all stitches. Make another band the same (right and wrong sides look the same)

Hood: Cast on 50 stitches. Work 8 stitches in seed stitch, 34 in stocking stitch, and 8 in seed stitch. Next row, increase 20 stitches across the stocking stitch section only. continue in 8 seed, 54 stocking, 8 seed for 15 inches. Cast off all stitches. Sew top of hood seam.

Sew side seams up to top of shoulder on both sides. Sew bands to front edge stretching slightly to fit evenly and placing the decreased edges against the front edge.
Attach hood to neck opening, leaving about 4 inches of seed band open to overlap with pin or button.

Armholes: use single crochet to stabalize the edge closest to the center front. On the outside edge of armhole, pick up 24 stitches and work 2 inches of seed stitch then cast off. Sew the short edges down. (see photos of armhole)


Finish with a cute pin overlapping the upper bands near the neck, OR sew three buttons, and add matching crochet loops on other side to fasten. I will be finishing this one when I bring it to my sister in two weeks. Her choice!

23 comments:

The Sewing Loft said...

Fabulous, just fabulous!

My name WAS Female, I shit you not! said...

THAT looks AMAZING and you are AMAZING !

In my next life I want to make it. ;0)

nicolaknits said...

Holy crap, that's a lot of knitting. It's fantastic!

Linda T said...

That is one beautiful cape!

Anonymous said...

Just Beautiful !

StickLena =KnitLena said...

I ended up here via Knitting Pattern Central and the Spider Legs Scarf pattern. Now I have been on the tour of my knitting life, so many nice and beutiful designs you have made. The top of it all is the fantastic Cape!

Erin said...

I really love this pattern, but I'm not to sure about the mohair. Do you have a suggestion for something less fluffy that is about the same gauge that I could try knitting this cape in. I can't wait to try it and see how it turns out. :)

chris said...

The problem with anything less mohair is that it would likely be too heavy and droop too much. You could try anything that knits to gauge, and make a swatch large enough to wash and hang. See if it stretches. Then knit it about 6 inches shorter with the expectation of stretching to the ground by weight alone.... best suggestion. :)

Anonymous said...

I'm currently working on this, and I'm excited to see it come together, but.... I'm using the suggested needles, and well the spot that's supposed to be about 16 in from X to the shoulder point. Any suggestions about needle size? Right now I'm at about 20 in... with 60 stitches left on the needles. Kinda considering a size 5USA needles.

chris said...

What is your gauge? Measure 4 inches across, count stitches (in the middle of the fabric)

Anonymous said...

It's 14 stitches across.

Anonymous said...

I am also using yarn from Loops and Threads the Country Loom style for the chunky yarn. It's 100% acrylic.

chris said...

I am not quite clear, are you too many stitches (like it will be too long?) it does not make sense when your gauge is tighter than mine. Unless the weight of your fabric is making it stretch lengthwise? You may want to use a smaller needle to make tighter fabric, but it still may stretch too much because it is heavier than mohair. Not sure if any of this helps.
Chris

Anonymous said...

Hmm...Okay yes this does help some. I do think it's the weight of the yarn that is making it stretch lengthwise. Thanks, I think I will pull out smaller needles and probably shorten the length of 'X', to allow for the stretchage.

Thank you for your help!

Kit Saunders said...

I really want to make this, but I'm allergic to mohair; do you have any suggestions for a yarn that won't drive me insane?

chris said...

you can try an all acrylic mock-mohair, ask your local yarn shop... the problem may be that it is heavier, and stretchier, and you will have to make it shorter, and let it stretch out to floor length. Be careful.

Jazzmin Hacker said...

What is the total yard count? I'm attempting to ombre this for a wonderful nature ritual and I want to get the yards right. Thanks for helping!

chris said...

20 balls at 200 meters is 2000 meters total, or a bit MORE than that in yards. Gradually fading colours would be amazing. I would love to see a photo when done!
chris

kuroe wabara said...

im collecting knitting patterns for my journal (for personal use), and ive decided to include this one, could you please explain what the "band" is?
thank you

chris said...

the band is the front band, sewn after the fact up the front edge. The separate piece allows the seam to stabilize the front... Won't stretch and droop. It is explained in the sew together paragraph.
chris

Devon J said...

So beautiful! I have some yarn that will be very tricky to use, but am determined to try it on my bulky knitting machine.
But I would like it without the arm holes, would it be too much trouble for you to give me the instructions for one panel without arm holes?
Thank you,
Dj

chris said...

Hi DJ, I just cropped out the armhole details.....

Cast on 45 stitches, work seed stitch for 3 inches. Change to stocking stitch and work decreasing at the start of row only every 6 inches until 40 stitches. Work even until you reach the X measurement. (place marker) work even until you are 16 inches above the X marker.

Now start the shoulder decreases as the pattern states....

Hope that helps. Keep in mind, your yarn must be very light and airy, as this pattern will SAG with heavier yarn. I can't imagine a knitting machine will work with the kind of fluffy mohair that I used here. Good luck,

Chris

vnik said...

OMG!!! I wish I had the patience to make something of this magnitude. If you ever find a way to bottle your patience, (not to mention perserverence,) I want to order a case.