Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Noro Chunky Silk Garden Coat

The yarn was the inspiration. Noro Silk Garden is the softest yarn with the most interesting colours, and I found such a great deal on the Chunky version at the Needle Emporium this year, I could not resist... I have loved the idea of an oversized lapel that folds on itself in waves and designed this coat to do just that. Using the seed stitch allows it to look the same whether right side is facing or wrong side as it folds back and forth. It also leaves a nice flat finish to the edge. No need to add a ribbed edging to finish the garment! You could use a shawl pinto close this in many ways, but mostly I like it just open and free flowing.




The unusual shoulder shaping on the front is intentionally designed to add to the drape of the lapel.  It creates more folds in the way the front hangs.  See the drawing for details.

Chunky Silk Garden Coat

Size:  xSmall[Small, Medium, Large, xLarge]  actual size of oversize coat: 32”[36”, 40”, 44”, 46”] measured at bustline.
Yarn:  Noro Silk Garden Chunky: 13[15, 16, 17, 19] balls, Shown in colour 6 (45% silk, 45% kid mohair, 10% wool. 50 gram balls- 60 meters)
Needles, 6mm (US 10)  Preferably circular but knit without joining in circle.  It makes it easier to knit the collar.  *** or size to achieve exact gauge AFTER knitting a swatch and washing in gentle cold water.  Lie flat to dry then measure.
Gauge: 11 sts = 4 inches. (knit in stocking stitch)
Stitch holders
Seed Stitch:  Row 1: [Knit one, purl one] repeat across the row.  Row 2: purl the knits and knit the purls.  Repeat rows 1 & 2 for the pattern.
Stocking Stitch: Row 1: knit all stitches.  Row 2, purl all the stitches.

Back:  Cast on 44[50, 55, 60, 64] stitches.  Work in seed stitch for 3 inches.  Change to stocking stitch and continue until the piece measures 13[14, 14, 15, 15] inches.
Shape armhole: Bind off 5 stitches at beginning of next 2 rows.  Decrease one stitch each side every other row 3[3, 4, 4, 4] times.  Work straight until total length is 22[23, 23, 24, 24] inches. 
Shoulder: bind off 7[9, 9, 11, 13] stitches at the start of next 2 rows.  Place remaining 14[16, 19, 20, 20] stitches on a stitch holder.

Right front: Cast on 36[38, 41, 41, 44] stitches.  Work in seed stitch for 3 inches.  Next row (right side facing) work 12 stitches in seed stitch, place marker, work the rest in stocking stitch. Continue to work the front center edge with 12 seed stitch, and the rest in stocking stitch AND AT THE SAME TIME  increase one stitch every 2 inches at the center front edge only.  Incorporate that stitch into the 12 seed stitch pattern and move the stitch marker over, converting the 13th stitch into stocking stitch as you do.  Make 6 increases like this then continue evenly for the rest of the front.  (still keeping the 12 seed stitch edge)
Work like this until the piece is 13[14, 14, 15, 15] inches long from start. 
Armhole:  Bind off 5 stitches at start of wrong side.  Bind off one stitch at armhole edge 2 times more.  CONTINUE TO WORK THE 12 STITCH SEED STITCH BAND.  Work even until 4 inches from the start of armhole decreases.  Begin increases: cast on one stitch at start of armhole edge, every other row until 9 increases have been made.  Work one row until wrong side is facing you (starting at armhole edge.)  Make shoulder extension:  Purl across 16[17, 18, 19, 20] stitches .  Place rest of stitches on a stitch holder.  Right side facing: Knit 2 together,  knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 together.  Next row purl.  Continue to knit 2 together at start and end of each right side row until one stitch is remaining and fasten off.  (see drawing – you are making the triangular shoulder extension)
Work left side:
 Cast on 36[38, 41, 41, 44] stitches.  Work in seed stitch for 3 inches.  Next row (right side facing) work 24[26,29,29,32]sts in stocking stitch, place marker, work the rest in seed stitch. Continue to work the front center edge with 12 seed stitch, and the rest in stocking stitch AND AT THE SAME TIME  increase one stitch every 2 inches at the center front edge only (the seed stitch edge).  Incorporate that stitch into the 12 seed stitch pattern and move the stitch marker over, converting the 13th stitch into stocking stitch as you do.  Make 6 increases like this then continue evenly for the rest of the front.  (still keeping the 12 seed stitch edge)
Work like this until the piece is 13[14, 14, 15, 15] inches long from start. 
Armhole:  Bind off 5 stitches at start of right side.  Bind off one stitch at armhole edge 2 times more.  CONTINUE TO MAINTAIN THE 12 STITCH SEED STITCH BAND AT THE CENTER FRONT.  Work even until 4 inches from the start of armhole decreases.  Begin increases: cast on one stitch at start of armhole edge, every other row until 9 increases have been made.  Work one row until right side is facing you (starting at armhole edge.)  Make shoulder extension:  Knit across 16[17, 18, 19, 20] stitches .  Place rest of stitches on a stitch holder.  Purl one row.  Right side facing: Knit 2 together,  knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 together.  Next row purl.  Continue to knit 2 together at start and end of each right side row until one stitch is remaining and fasten off.  (see drawing – you are making the triangular shoulder extension)

Sew shoulder seams (drawing : match A to A and B to B and sew in between)
With circular needle, pick up the stitches from right front holder, pick up 8[9,9,10,10]sts  from right shoulder extension, sts from back holder, 8[9,9,10,10]  sts from left front shoulder extension, then sts from left front holder.
Work seed stitch across the collar, back and forth until 2.5 inches are worked, then cast off all stitches in seed stitch.

Sleeves: (make two) Cast on 26[28,30,30,32] stitches, Work in seed stitch for 3  inches.
Work in stocking stitch, increasing one each side, every 6 rows 10 times.   Continue without increasing until total length is 15 inches (or whatever length you would like). 
Cap shaping: Bind off 5 stitches at start of each row.  Decrease one each side every other row 8 times, then one each side EVERY row 3[3,4,4,4] times.  Bind off 2 stitches at the start of next 4 rows, then bind off all remaining stitches.
Sew cap of sleeve into armhole curve of front/back.
Sew sleeve and side seams.  I like to wash gently in cold water and lay flat to dry... this softens the garment and gives a nice halo to the fabric.  This also makes it a little more relaxed and bigger, so keep it in mind for sizing.  The coat I made has long enough sleeves to roll up.  You could make the sleeves shorter if you don't want the rolled cuff.


If you tuck one lapel under opposite shoulder, you get this different look!

29 comments:

KATHLEEN HONE-O'FLAHERTY said...

thanks for this
seeing you wearing it is the inspiration I needed to start knitting seriously again
Kathleen

KATHLEEN HONE-O'FLAHERTY said...

thank you for this
it is beautiful
Kathleen

KATHLEEN HONE-O'FLAHERTY said...

fabulous

Anonymous said...

Can you tell me the gauge in this pattern? I am thinking of using Zanziba instead of the Noro.

chris said...

Thanks for the question, I have added a gauge to the pattern above, 14sts and 17 rows = 4 inches, and I think Zanziba on 6mm needles should be close!
Happy knitting!

chrissy said...

so wish this was in size 60" chest its so beautiful and looks so relaxing and comfy :) love it

jandapaur said...

hi Chrissy, could I use stocking stitch all the way? I've only knitted a scarf so far but I really want to do this and think I could have a crack at it if I could! Well done; a lovely look.

chris said...

stocking stitch would be a problem, as the edges would roll up and not drape properly. Garter stitch is easy, knit each row! Give it a try.

jandapaur said...

Aha knit I can do! Thanks ever so much for putting this on. Have just ordered the yarn, can't wait.

jandapaur said...

one more thing - do you really mean 16 balls?

chris said...

16 balls of 50gram chunky yarn, yes. It is a large coat!!

jandapaur said...

thanks for your time, TTFN

Peggy said...

How would I change this for Xsmall/Small? I have only knitted 2 sweaters and that was 45 years ago!!!!

chris said...

for small.... start the back with 53 stitches, and the fronts with 37 each. Sleeves could be 27. Follow rest of pattern, but make it a couple of inches shorter in length for all pieces. It should work out fine!

Williamsville South 1978 said...

Thanks for the small dimensions! This is now next in my queue.

Ellisen said...

Gorgeous Sweater! Exactly what I need. Thank you so much for sharing the pattern with us. It looks fantastic on you.

Anonymous said...

If making this great jacket in size small, how many yards would you estimate I would need?

chris said...

about 950 for medium ,... so maybe 850 for small? Not sure.
Chris

Anonymous said...

Love your pattern. Thanks for sharing. I'm considering adding to the length. would I just add the extra inches in the area before binging off for sleeve area?

Missi said...

I'd like to makebthisbin an 18/20 for my mom. How can I enlarge without losing the proper shape?

chris said...

If you can find a yarn that knits to 12 sts to 4inches, bulky yarn or 7mm. Needles, it should work big enough just following the pattern.

lindateacher said...

beautiful jacket - just what my daughter has asked me to make BUT I don't knit - only crochet - any diagram with measurements so I could have a go at making my own pattern?
thank you
Linda

Anonymous said...

I just finished this garden coat and love love it. Now i have lots of family and friends that want one. :) perfect for cool nights. Thank you for sharing.

Anonymous said...

I love this coat but I can't seem to get the gage right and I'm trying to figure out what size to do. I am wanting to use ella rae Seasons yarn but I'm not sure its bulky enough as my gage is coming out to 14 stitches on size 11 needles. I have to go up to size 15 needles to get the 11 stitchs per 4". My bust measures 42". Help!!! can the pattern be adjusted to use this yarn?

chris said...

You need to get a truly chunky yarn, that knits to gauge, then make the largest size. Should fit fine!
Chris

Anonymous said...

I made this pattern just from looking at someone else's clothing. I am going to make it again according to your pattern. Thanks.

Cindy748 said...

Did you know this yarn was discontinued in 2008?

chris said...

Sad that they discontinued such a wonderful yarn. Still, probably why I purchased it at such an amazing price in 2009, and made this back in 2010. There must be other self striping chunky yarns that would produce this pattern....
Happy yarn hunting!

KurtzCrafts said...

This is so beautiful and I can't wait to make it! Thank you so much for sharing!!!