Here it is. Just in time for the fall weather. A beautiful cabled sweater. It is also the first sweater that I am posting in multiple sizes! The cable pattern pulses thick and thin vertically up the sweater. It will keep you interested and challenge you in the shaping. This pattern is for experienced knitters only! Hope you like it!
The chart below is like a photo. Right click on it and save it to your computer, or print it out. You will need this at your side, at least until you get the rhythm of the pulse!
Pulsing Cable Sweater
Yarn: Sport weight
yarn: Label should suggest 3.5mm – 4mm
needles, and 20-22 sts=4” in stocking stitch… 50gram balls should have around
125m, and you need 12 – 14 balls. (I
used Sandnes DUO, a merino/cotton blend)
Needles: 3.5 mm (US 5) for body, and 3.5mm and 4.0mm(US6)
short circulars for the big turtleneck.
Gauge: 26 stitches, 30 rows = 4 inches knit from the chart. You
should do a swatch using the whole chart width, and at least half the chart
height…. Then wash or block the swatch before measuring! This is very important to get the size that you want!!!
Sizes: Small (4 – 6,
fits up to 35 inch chest), Medium (8 – 10, fits up to 38 inch chest), Large (
12 – 14, fits up to 42 inch chest). The
cable knit is very stretchy, but I like a natural fit (not too stretched)
Cable stitches:
4 stitch left cable:
place next 2 sts on cable needle, hold to front of work, knit next 2 sts
from left needle, then knit 2 sts from cable needle.
4 stitch right cable: place next 2 sts on cable needle, hold
to back of work, knit next 2 sts from left needle, then knit 2 sts from cable
needle.
2 of 3 left cable: place next 2 sts on cable needle, hold to
front of work, knit 1 st from left needle, then knit 2 sts from cable needle.
2 of 3 right cable: place next 1 st on cable needle, hold to
back of work, knit 2 sts from left needle, then knit 1 st from cable needle.
2 stitch left cable:
place 1 st on cable needle and hold to front of work, knit 1 st from
left needle, then knit 1 st from cable needle.
2 stitch right cable: place 1 st on cable needle and hold to
back of work, knit 1 st from left needle, then knit 1 st from cable needle.
A word about raglan edges:
On all four pieces you will decrease above the armhole for the raglan
edge. You will keep all edges as 2 knit
stitch (2 purl on wrong side), and have 2 purl stitches right beside them. You will do the decreases in the 2 purl
stitches next to the 2 stitch knit edge.
It makes a nice clean line to the raglan, and an easy seam to sew up at
the end. Don’t worry, I will talk you
through this…
Pattern: ***when
there are multi size instructions, they will be like this….. small(medium,large)***
Back: With 3.5mm needles cast on 112(120,136) stitches. Work in k2, p2 ribbing for 2.5 inches. On last row (wrong side) increase 12(18,16)
evenly across.
Start using the chart (save the photo and print out!)
starting at row one and stitch one, work first 6 sts, then repeat stitches 7 –
20 (between the light blue lines) 8(9,10) times, then last 6 sts. All wrong
side rows are knit or purl as presented to you.
Work up the chart repeating the center 14 stitches as established. After row 47, work the wrong side 48 , then
start row 1 again.
Work in pulsing cable pattern until length of back measures
14.5”(15.0”, 15.5”). End with a right
side row facing you.
Raglan shaping: Bind
off 14 stitches at the start of next two rows.
(at this point, if you do not have enough stitches to make a cable, just
knit the stitches that you do have.) Now
start decreases…
Row one decrease: Knit 2, purl 2 together, purl 1, work in
cable pattern until 5 stitches remain, purl 1, purl 2 together, knit 2 sts.
Row two decrease: knit the knits, purl the purls like usual!
Repeat this decrease pattern, keeping the cable pattern as
much as you can – you will lose the cables at the edges gradually – until you
have 42(50,56) stitches left. Place
these on a stitch holder.
Front: Work at for
back until front measures 21”(22”,23”).
Make neck opening: find and mark
center 16(20,24) stitches. Work until
center stitches, join second ball of yarn and bind off 16(20,24) stitches. Work both sides at once, bind off one stitch
at each neck edge (knit 2 together at neck edge) every right side row 6
times. (keep doing the outside edge
raglan shaping at the same time) then leave neck edge even, and work until the
raglan gets down to three stitches on each side. Last three rows: row 1: Knit 2 together, knit one. Row 2:
purl 2. Row 3: knit 2 together,
and fasten off.
Sleeves: Cast on
48(54,60)
Work in k2,p2 ribbing for 2.5 inches, increase 6(4,4) across
last row…. (54(58,64) stitches are on
the needles now)
Start chart pattern:
Small: Start row 1, stitch1, and repeat center 14 stitches 3 times, end
with chart st 26.
Medium: purl 2, work chart repeating center 3 times, end
with stitch 26, purl 2.
Large: Start with stitch 3, work across, repeating center 4
times, end with stitch 24.
All sizes: work chart as established. Increase one stitch each side every 6 rows.
Work increases in purl stitches until there are enough to establish
another cable pattern. Add pattern first
in knit stitches, then in cables when enough allow. (if this is too difficult, you can continue
to work the new stitches in purl stitches (reverse stocking stitch) all the way
up the sleeve.
Work this way until increases grow to 94(98,104)
stitches. Work even until 17”(17.5”,18”)
from start.
Begin raglan shaping, bind off 14 from start of next two
rows, then use decrease pattern until 8 stitches remain. Place these on a holder.
Finishing: sew the raglan seams. Slip held stitches from right sleeve, back
and left sleeve onto a short cable needle (3.5mm). Pick up 54(58,62) stitches evenly around the
front neck edge. Count the stitches on
the needle and divide by 4. If any extra
stitches, decrease them across the back , and work in a knit 2, purl 2 ribbing
for 4 inches. Switch to 4 mm needles and
work ribbing for another 4 inches, then bind off loosely.
Sew under sleeve and side seams.
I love cables... :)