Numbers for the Wood Hoods

I receive most of my emails and comments about my Wood Hood pattern. (Interesting that it was my FIRST published pattern and the reason that I started posting patterns in the first place... I KNEW it was a good pattern!) The most common question has to do with the numbers sewn to the top of the fuzzy hood. I usually answer that I found them at Michaels (embroydered patch section). I now find they do not carry them anymore. Since I also suggested making them from felt yourself, I have decided to do a photo tutorial of how to make them!


First photo is a close up of the top of the golf club cover (the hood) before it is hot washed twice to felt it smaller and thicker.... what you notice is that the wool stitches are really obvious and the fuzz seams thin and sparse compared to the after felting shot of the covers... the wool WILL shrink and matt and push all the fuzz outside during the wash. Trust it and shrink it!








I also made these new head covers with stripes in the sock part, to match the numbers on top. Some of my email writers have said that works well too, if you choose not to use numbers! (photos further down show the stripes.) I use a driver and 4, 7, and 9 woods... so here is the set up.... I used regular felt in gold and STIFF felt in white. You can find these at any craft store. Layer soft over stiff (choose colours that contrast your fun fur and match your bag!) Draw in pencil first then fine marker, numbers that are about 1.25 inches tall.

On a sewing machine, trace the lines with small stitches and matching thread. (you could also cut them and glue them onto the stiff white background, but I think the stitches make it look better.

Cut between each number and with fine scissors, trim about .25 inches from the stitching through the TOP LAYER ONLY.

Now trim about .25 inches away from the gold number through the white felt....

There are your numbers! I have laid them on the covers that match. I have a very old and loved Eeyore head cover that I use for my 4 wood, so he will get a patch sewn to his ear! Notice the stripes on the other covers.

Sew the numbers through the white stiff felt only.

Here they are on my clubs....

Perfect!

Two for One Felting!

So I was on the golf course, the place where many great ideas start and grow while I walk the 8K through the beautiful parkland whacking away at the little white ball. I was thinking about a couple of felting projects and trying to get psyched up for the hour and a half of rolling each would take. It is the only part of the felting process I find tedious, and the only thing that keeps me from felting everyday! Then, in a eureka moment, the thought came to me! Two for one! What if I laid out the first scarf on bubble wrap, sprayed it with hot soapy water, covered it with more bubble wrap, laid out a SECOND scarf, then wrapped it all in plastic. Rolling all up in a jelly roll style, I could roll two scarves at once, and skip half the rolling!

I could not wait to try this, and here are the photos of the first layer, a scarf made from Colinette Roving in Bright Charcoal to match my Colinette Art Cardigan. This one is made from two layers of roving, with no gaps. It will be a warm woolly scarf with Swiss cheese holes cut into it after the first two rollings (15 minutes for each rolling).

The second scarf is made with silk chiffon in black, layered with wispy thin merino roving (same as above) leaving plenty of silk showing between the merino lines. This will make a sheer, light scarf for more moderate temperatures, still matching my Art Cardigan!

The pair were rolled together for 5 - 15 minute sessions, unrolling and rolling up over a pool noodle from the opposite side after each session.
The scarves were finished with the same process, tossing in the sink several times, then hot and cold baths repeated until firmly felted. Rinse in cold, wrap in towels, and hang to dry... both look great with the sweater, and if it weren't over 30C ( 86F) I would model them!! :)

Scarf One.

Scarf Two.

Colinette Art Cardigan

Yarn: Colinette Art, 5 skeins (100 grams - 173 meters)

Gauge: 17 sts and 26 rows = 4 inches in stocking stitch

Size: Roomy 44 inch chest.

Needles: 4.0mm (US 6) circular needles required for front bands so I use them for every piece.

Stocking stitch : right side Knit. Wrong side Purl.

Seed stitch: row 1: k1, p1 repeat across row. row2: knit the purls, purl the knits.

Back: Cast on 85 sts. Work in seed stitch for 2 inches. On last row increase 9 stitches evenly across the row. Change to stocking stitch, and work until 16 " from start.

Raglan shaping: Cast off 8 sts at the start of next two rows.

** decrease row**Knit 2, knit 2 together, knit to last 4 sts, knit 2 together, knit 2**

use decrease row every 2nd row 22 times. Then every 4th row 5 times.

Cast off remaining 24 sts.

Left Front: cast on 43 sts. Work in seed stitch for 2 inches, increasing 4 sts across the last row. Change to stocking stitch, and work even until 16 inches from start. Cast off 8 at the start of next right side row. (underarm side). Start decreases on that side only by the knit 2, knit2 together method every 2nd row for 22 repeats, then every 4th row, 5 times. ***ALSO at the same time decrease one stitch at the neck edge, every 6th row 11 times. (the neck edge decrease should be done by knit 2 together at the edge.) Continue both decrease edges, until 10 sts are left, and the piece should be about one inch shorter than the back. Cast off 10 sts.

Right side: same as left, but reverse the decrease shaping to mirror the left side.

Sleeves: Cast on 33 sts. Work in seed stitch for 3 inches. Increase 5 sts across the last row. Change to stocking stitch and shape the sleeve by increasing one stitch each end every 6th row 13 times (64 sts on needle). Work even until sleeve is 18 inches long (or chosen length to underarm).

Cap shaping: Cast off 8 sts each side. Then using the Decrease Row method, decrease one each side every 2nd row 10 times, then every 4th row 9 times. Right sleeve (right side facing) cast off 4 sts, knit to end. Purl next row. Cast off 4 sts. [left sleeve, (wrong side facing) cast off 4 sts, purl to end. knit next row, cast off 4 sts.]

Sew raglan seams. Bands: Pick up 120 sts on right side front (up to neck edge only) Work in seed stitch for front band, about 1.5 inches. Place button holes evenly spaced along the lower part of band only [I put three]. Cast off loosely. Do the same for the left side band, without buttonholes.

Collar. pick up 70 sts from the neck edge including the top of the front bands. Work in seed stitch for 4 inches, then do 5 rows of stocking stitch before casting off loosely. This last bit will roll into a nice edge for the collar.

Really soon now...

I finally got the cardigan finished, and put the buttons on and went outside to take the photos... I am just about ready to post the pattern now. I need to spend an hour or so typing and editing my chicken scratch notes into a comprehensible pattern! Maybe this evening...stay tuned! By the way, I am looking towards the morning sun and it is already over 23C / 74F on the way to 29/83. Really too warm for such a wooly thick sweater! But I DO love summer makeup, sunglasses and lip gloss! I am standing in front of our tomato and snow pea patio garden. We have already had lots of peas and a few cherry tomatoes! I love summer!

The second photo is some knitted earrings. They are knit with HABU stainless steel in shiny black. I will also post this easy pattern, which is knit in a rectangle, then squished through some beads, before stretching out into interesting shapes (these shapes hold because of the steel)

Now I am off to the sewing room for a bit of sewing... check the other side (upper right square link) to see what I have been sewing.