Inspiration

You may wonder where my inspiration comes from... It hits me suddenly when I see something new and exciting, often when I am not looking.  I would find them in magazines, or stores or on people on the street.  The most thrilling inspirational tool in the last few years, for me, has been Pinterest.   If you have not hopped on that site and got lost (for hours) you do not know what you are missing.  Most mornings, I have a quick look.  When I say quick, it is often longer than I should, and I end up running and rushing to get out of the house on time!  This morning I "pinned" this lovely sweater.  It speaks to me of Christmas, and of my darling daughter.  Makes me smile as any new inspiration should.  Will I knit this?  Maybe, but without the cap, and maybe not.  I may just look at it from time to time.

 The next pin fascinated me.  I am always looking for ways to close my knitted and felted shawls.  So I looked further and found a WHOLE SITE of unbelievably wonderful nuno felting!  Takes my breath away and makes me want to run to my felting table and immerse myself in wet soapy wool! But no, I must do more Christmas preparations, must stick to the plan, must not get sidetracked by yummy woolly fabric! (well, maybe if I rush around I could find time???)   Stay focused!  Check out the LINK to see if you do not fall in love with felting again!

So now, I leave and begin my busy day, with visions of wet felting and robin sweaters dancing in my head!  Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all.

On a steady pace

I have been chugging along with my Christmas gift quests... Knitting, sewing, shopping.  I am pleased that most of my shopping has been accomplished on-line, and the gals at work have seen a steady flow of packages delivered to the office.  I hate crowds.  The Internet is the single most convenient device that has made my life easy.  I think of a gift... I research the availability, price, options, patterns, colours, shipping methods... all from the comfort of my desk chair.  Life is good.

 Here is just one of the many socks....

 This is an almost-done sweater in red silk.  A new pattern soon to be posted in several sizes (yay) and knit with minimal seams!  Get your circular needles out, folks, here is comes.  (in a week or so after the rush has settled and the chocolates and wine have gone!)

For now, you get a peak at the tree.  I finally squeezed out the time to put it up.  Not bad, over a week before the big day.  I have about 50 nutcrackers on my tree like the little red guy in the photo.  They make me very happy.

Honing the Felting Techniques.... Cowls

I have been busy with gift knitting, but also have gone a bit nuts with the felting...

 I really like the spiky cowls.  They finish with a button or two under the chin, and really stay put.  Light weight, warm and cool at the same time!

 These are more black than the photos show in this light.

 Most compliments have come from the plum and orange spikey... with blasts of silk.

 The next two are longer wrapping scarves with holes and spikes and embellishments.

 The blue one has large silk fabric pieces, felted into it, and when it felted, the silk popped out in billows of ruffles, really cute.

 The greedn has silk backing (nuno-felting) with patches and buttons.

 The last one is black silk with only a bit of dense felting. A really bubbly effect.

My friends and I will be very warm this winter.   :)

Quick sewing project

I just made this Boot Caddy for my new Fluevogs....

You can find lots of photos and instructions HERE, or on the sewing side of my blogs (upper right window, where all my sewing adventures lurk!)

Winter Flip Flop Socks

In the summer, I purchased some wonderful flip flops.  They are Montrail, and mold perfectly to my feet.  They are the first flip flops (I used to get lots of cheap ones) that do not fall off my feet, or cause pain at the "thong", or wear out to fast.
As a result, and because my sore feet find them soothing, I have been wearing them as slippers around the house since the weather turned cold.
To solve a problem, I re-wrote my "best sock pattern ever" to include a mitten style toe finish.  So here is the new pattern from start to finish.  It requires an experienced sock knitter (experience with glove knitting also helps).  You will need to make a definite left and right sock.  Happy winter sandal feet!

 This pattern fits adult women, size 7-9.  Knit the foot an inch longer or shorter to adjust, and add 4 or 8  stitches in the round for men.
Yarn: 100 grams of SOCK YARN.
Needles: 4 dpn 2.25mm, plus extra yarn and darning needle to place stitches on a holder.
PATTERN:

Cast on 60 stitches and join in the round. Knit for 1.5 inches in K2, P2 ribbing. Change to K3, P1 ribbing, and continue to work in the round until total length is about 7 inches.

Heel: Put half the stitches (30 ) on one needle by knitting next 15 sts, and transfer previous 15 onto the front of this needle. Rearrange the other 30 sts onto two needles with 15 each. These 2 needles will be ignored for a while.

Working on the 30 st needles, Purl (wrong side) across. Right side: [Slip one, K 1] repeat across row. Work these two rows until repeated 15 times. (the heel should be almost square and be about 2.5 inches).

With right side facing you will now do the magic that is a heel turn! K17, K2tog, K1, turn to wrong side facing. Slip one, P5, P2tog, P1, turn. Slip one, Knit to the stitch before the gap (the space between the slipped stitch and the old heel stitches). Knit 2 tog (thus closing the gap and picking up the last slipped stitch and the next old heel stitch), K1, turn. Slip one, Purl to st before gap and P2tog over gap, P1, turn. Repeat these two rows, until all the old heel stitches are involved and worked.

Right side again: Knit across heel, pick up 15 sts up the side of the heel (put these on needle 1).

Work next 30 sts on needle 2, AND work them in the K3, P1 ribbing, as they are already still looking at you. Pick up 15 sts on the other side of the heel and knit half of the bottom of the heel sts. (needle 3). Check and make Needle 1 and Needle 3 have the same number of sts on each, adjust if needed.

Round ONE: Knit down Needle 1 to 3 sts before end, K2tog, K1, Needle 2: work in K3, P1 pattern as established, Needle 3: K1, K2tog, knit to end of needle. Round TWO: Knit needle 1, Pattern needle 2, Knit needle 3. Repeat these two rounds, until back to 60 sts (15, 30, 15). Then continue in stocking stitch for the under foot and ribbing stitch for the top of foot, until about 6 inches from the picked up stitches of the heel (or until sock is about 1.5 inches short of your foot length). 

***here is where the pattern changes from the basic sock pattern***

Left Foot:  With the top of the sock facing you (the 30 stitch needle to be worked next).... Knit across 10 stitches.  Using a darning needle and contrasting yarn, pick the next 40 stitches off the needles and leave them on the contrasting yarn (tie loosely to assure that they do not fall off.)
Going back to needle one, pick last stitch onto a new needle, and then cast on 3 new stitches.  Knit one stitch from needle 3.  (there are now 5 stitches on needle two).  Knit the last 9 stitches on the new needle 3.  You have 23 stitches for the big toe!  Knit round this toe for 10 rows.  Now decrease one stitch at the first stitch of needle one and the last stitch of needle three (this is the outside edge of the sock).  Do this decrease every other row two more times. Work one more row even, then decrease 5 evenly around the row.  12 sts remain.  Rearrange onto 2 needles, each with 6 sts, so that the toe is flat to the sock.  Use Kitchener stitch to close the top of the toe.
With the top of the sock facing you....Carefully pick up the 40 stitches from the yarn holder:  Put the first 5 on needle 1, next 15 on needles 2, next 15 on needle 3, last 5 on needle 4. Join yarn and pick up 3 sts at the base of the big toe (still using needle 4). Knit 5 sts from needle one (still using needle 4).  You now have a circle of 15 (needle 2), 15 (needle 3), 13 (new needle 1, that you have just worked).
Work in the round, knitting all, AT THE SAME TIME decrease at the outside edge (end on needle 2 and start of needle 3) every other row until 21 stitches remain.  Decrease 5 evenly across the last row, then divide onto two needles with 8 on each. Use Kitchener stitch to close the top of sock.

Right foot:
With top of sock facing you, Knit across 20 stitches. Using darning needle and contrasting yarn, place previous 40 stitches on yarn stitch holder.
Knit across next 10 stitches.  Knit next 9 stitches (needle 2). Use new needle to knit next stitch, cast on 3 sts, knit one more stitch from needle 1 (now 5 sts on needle 3).  You have 23 stitches for the big toe.  Work in knit stitch round the toe for  10 rows.  Now decrease one stitch at the end of needle one and start of needle two every other row 3 times. Work one row even, then decrease 5 evenly around the row.  Kitchener stitch the 12 rows closed.
With the BOTTOM of the sock facing you, put the held stitches on needles like this.... Slip the first 5 sts (nearest the base of the toe already knit) on needle. Slip next 15 on new needle (this one is now needle 3).  Slip next 15 on new needle (this one is needle 1).  Slip next 5 on fourth needle.  Join yarn here, and pick up 3 stitches across the base of toe with this same needle.  Knit across the next 5 stitches with the same needle (now needle 2).  You should have 15, 13, 15 on three needles.  Work around these needles, decreasing at the outside edge at the end of needle 3 and the start of needle 1, every other row until 21 sts remain.  Decrease 5 evenly across the last row, then divide onto two needles with 8 on each.  Use Kitchener stitch to close the top of sock.

Find your favourite sandals and enjoy!

Felting Artwork Unveiled!

The grand unveiling of the huge art project was held last Thursday.  The local Cable station, sent a crew to film it, and I was one of the artists interviewed that made the edited version.   It was aired locally but I found the internet link, in case anyone would like to see the whole installation and see my interview about the felted apples!
Check it out HERE.
It is of course, way better to see in person, and they are permanently housed at the Region of Niagara headquarters on Schmon Parkway.

New Sock Pattern....

I am almost done with a new sock pattern, made from the wish to wear my flip flops into the winter.... Socks made like mittens.  The big toe will be knit separately from the rest of the toes.  Quite easy really, and wonderfully comfortable!
Thank you to those who have downloaded POLARA and left me messages, by comment or email, to let me know they have done that, and that they LOVE playing the game.  I really appreciate the effort and support.
See you in a couple of days with the NEW sock pattern  :)

I need my Knitting Community....

As you all know, I started to write my blog for me... but the wonderful thing is that I also write it for YOU now.  I have pledged to write more patterns with more sizes, I answer all my emails and comments and have hand held (electronically) more than a few knitters through my patterns over the years.  What do I get?  I get enormous joy from the emails and comments, and I get inspired to try new and better things!  For that I thank you.
At this entry I would love your indulgence.  What I am looking for is for each of you to consider your family and friends ( or even yourselves) and find ONE person who loves action video games.  I would ask you to have them download POLARA.  It is available for Android or Ipad/ Ipod/ Iphone.  This game is a fast paced game, with no blood or gore, just lots of fun and thrills.

 There is a great story behind it and has lots of amazing reviews already.  Here's just one.

So why am I asking you to do this thing for me?  This is my Son's baby.  He came up with the concept, and worked out the program, and with the help two other guys, who did the wonderful graphics and the marketing, brought this game to life after almost two years of working full time!!! The only way this will pay off is if people download it and play it and like it and pass the word on!

So please, for me, find someone that games, and make this happen.  Love you all!

Oh, and hit the poll button in the top right... I would LOVE to hear that you are with me!

Halloween Pictures

The show last night was a blast.  I would recommend fans of the Rocky Horror Picture Show see a live, on-stage version at least once, and should dress to attend.  There is so much audience participation! 

 Here are Riff Raff and Magenta, ready to leave for the show.  In my humble opinion, we were the best Riff Raff and Magenta in the audience, and has so much fun doing the Time Warp in the aisle, and throwing toast and rice and cards and making it rain with a tiny water pistol.... so much work watching this show!

Here is this years pumpkin... simple and elegant!

Pulsing Cable Sweater

 Here it is. Just in time for the fall weather.  A beautiful cabled sweater.  It is also the first sweater that I am posting in multiple sizes!  The cable pattern pulses thick and thin vertically up the sweater.  It will keep you interested and challenge you in the shaping.  This pattern is for experienced knitters only!  Hope you like it!

 The chart below is like a photo.  Right click on it and save it to your computer, or print it out.  You will need this at your side, at least until you get the rhythm of the pulse!

Pulsing Cable Sweater

Yarn:  Sport weight yarn:  Label should suggest 3.5mm – 4mm needles, and 20-22 sts=4” in stocking stitch… 50gram balls should have around 125m, and you need 12 – 14 balls.  (I used Sandnes DUO, a merino/cotton blend)

Needles: 3.5 mm (US 5) for body, and 3.5mm and 4.0mm(US6) short circulars for the big turtleneck.

Gauge: 26 stitches, 30 rows = 4 inches knit from the chart. You should do a swatch using the whole chart width, and at least half the chart height…. Then wash or block the swatch before measuring!  This is very important to get the size that you want!!!

Sizes:  Small (4 – 6, fits up to 35 inch chest), Medium (8 – 10, fits up to 38 inch chest), Large ( 12 – 14, fits up to 42 inch chest).  The cable knit is very stretchy, but I like a natural fit (not too stretched)

Cable stitches: 

4 stitch left cable:   place next 2 sts on cable needle, hold to front of work, knit next 2 sts from left needle, then knit 2 sts from cable needle.

4 stitch right cable: place next 2 sts on cable needle, hold to back of work, knit next 2 sts from left needle, then knit 2 sts from cable needle.

2 of 3 left cable: place next 2 sts on cable needle, hold to front of work, knit 1 st from left needle, then knit 2 sts from cable needle.

2 of 3 right cable: place next 1 st on cable needle, hold to back of work, knit 2 sts from left needle, then knit 1 st from cable needle.

2 stitch left cable:  place 1 st on cable needle and hold to front of work, knit 1 st from left needle, then knit 1 st from cable needle.

2 stitch right cable: place 1 st on cable needle and hold to back of work, knit 1 st from left needle, then knit 1 st from cable needle.

A word about raglan edges:  On all four pieces you will decrease above the armhole for the raglan edge.  You will keep all edges as 2 knit stitch (2 purl on wrong side), and have 2 purl stitches right beside them.  You will do the decreases in the 2 purl stitches next to the 2 stitch knit edge.  It makes a nice clean line to the raglan, and an easy seam to sew up at the end.  Don’t worry, I will talk you through this… 

Pattern:   ***when there are multi size instructions, they will be like this…..  small(medium,large)***

Back: With 3.5mm needles cast on 112(120,136) stitches.  Work in k2, p2 ribbing for 2.5 inches.  On last row (wrong side) increase 12(18,16) evenly across.

Start using the chart (save the photo and print out!) starting at row one and stitch one, work first 6 sts, then repeat stitches 7 – 20 (between the light blue lines) 8(9,10) times, then last 6 sts. All wrong side rows are knit or purl as presented to you.  Work up the chart repeating the center 14 stitches as established.  After row 47, work the wrong side 48 , then start row 1 again.

Work in pulsing cable pattern until length of back measures 14.5”(15.0”, 15.5”).  End with a right side row facing you.

Raglan shaping:  Bind off 14 stitches at the start of next two rows.  (at this point, if you do not have enough stitches to make a cable, just knit the stitches that you do have.)  Now start decreases…

Row one decrease: Knit 2, purl 2 together, purl 1, work in cable pattern until 5 stitches remain, purl 1, purl 2 together, knit 2 sts.

Row two decrease: knit the knits, purl the purls like usual!

Repeat this decrease pattern, keeping the cable pattern as much as you can – you will lose the cables at the edges gradually – until you have 42(50,56) stitches left.  Place these on a stitch holder.

Front:  Work at for back until front measures 21”(22”,23”).  Make neck opening:  find and mark center 16(20,24) stitches.  Work until center stitches, join second ball of yarn and bind off 16(20,24) stitches.  Work both sides at once, bind off one stitch at each neck edge (knit 2 together at neck edge) every right side row 6 times.  (keep doing the outside edge raglan shaping at the same time) then leave neck edge even, and work until the raglan gets down to three stitches on each side.  Last three rows:  row 1: Knit 2 together, knit one.  Row 2:  purl 2.  Row 3: knit 2 together, and fasten off.

Sleeves:  Cast on 48(54,60)

Work in k2,p2 ribbing for 2.5 inches, increase 6(4,4) across last row….  (54(58,64) stitches are on the needles now)

Start chart pattern:  Small: Start row 1, stitch1, and repeat center 14 stitches 3 times, end with chart st 26.

Medium: purl 2, work chart repeating center 3 times, end with stitch 26, purl 2.

Large: Start with stitch 3, work across, repeating center 4 times, end with stitch 24.

All sizes: work chart as established.  Increase one stitch each side every 6  rows.  Work increases in purl stitches until there are enough to establish another cable pattern.  Add pattern first in knit stitches, then in cables when enough allow.  (if this is too difficult, you can continue to work the new stitches in purl stitches (reverse stocking stitch) all the way up the sleeve.

Work this way until increases grow to 94(98,104) stitches.  Work even until 17”(17.5”,18”) from start.

Begin raglan shaping, bind off 14 from start of next two rows, then use decrease pattern until 8 stitches remain.  Place these on a holder.

Finishing: sew the raglan seams.  Slip held stitches from right sleeve, back and left sleeve onto a short cable needle (3.5mm).  Pick up 54(58,62) stitches evenly around the front neck edge.  Count the stitches on the needle and divide by 4.  If any extra stitches, decrease them across the back , and work in a knit 2, purl 2 ribbing for 4 inches.  Switch to 4 mm needles and work ribbing for another 4 inches, then bind off loosely.

Sew under sleeve and side seams.

 I love cables...  :)

Halloween... part 1

Last week, we decided to get tickets to Oh Canada, Eh... their performance of Rocky Horror Picture Show.  Not only is this SO much fun to watch (we are RHPC fans from WAY back)... but it also created a rush to make costumes!  Of course, if you know anything about Rocky Horror Picture Show, you MUST attend a performance WEARING a costume, as one of the characters!  So, after promising I would not dress my hubby in a corset, off I went in search of supplies.  The first issue was the wigs.  I had to find a huge red wig for me.. I would be Magenta.

 Then a stringy, half bald wig for Riff Raff hubby...

 After that it would take some great makeup...

 and some great clothes...

 So here is the photo of the Magenta dress and apron.

 I used a charming vintage pattern from 1964 that stated, "good for uniforms", and it fits perfectly.   It includes good pockets so that I won't have to carry a purse.

 Then to Value Village for a ratty black blazer, that I cut into a ratty tailed tuxedo jacket.... complete with a built in hump on the back....
And made a vest to wear under from some vintage suit fabric.  I will stain the vest with tea, to make it more authentic, and wrinkle it and fasten with safety pins.

 Here is a low lit photo of me in the huge wig.... I need more makeup!

I am hoping that the Frankenstorm forecasted for the east coast is past us by Wednesday.  It will be a gloomy wet Halloween by all accounts, but the spirit will carry us through, no doubt!

Coming soon, pulsing cables....

My next pattern is a more complicated knit, designed for experienced knitters. Here is a sneak peak, and you can see a lovely cabled raglan sweater coming along.  The first photo shows the cable detail nicely, because the flash did not go, and the shadows show the pulsing cable pattern.

The second photo shows the true colour of my yarn.  A rich milk chocolate merino.  If you are interested in this pattern, I used Sandnes Duo, a sport weight merino-cotton mix.  I think it will take about 12 - 50gm balls.  An equivalent sport weight (ball band stating 3.5 - 4mm needle recommendation with 20 - 22 sts = 4 inches in stocking stitch.)  I will be knitting this in a ladies medium (to fit 37 inch chest), but I will also include a small, and large (at least) in the pattern!  The voting was in, and the multi-size votes were the landslide!  Thanks for all who sent their two cents worth.  I really love the feedback.

Art in the Region

The day arrived.  The art is installed in the Niagara Region Headquarters.  Mine is the green apples, part of the harvest series.  The five pieces were done in five different styles of mixed media artwork.  Mine is mostly wet felt and the stages can be followed by clicking the "felting" link in the upper right side of the blog.

 They are green apples, cherries in stained glass, 6 quart fruit baskets in mosaic, peach blossoms in fabric, embroidery and beads, and grapes in beads, fabric, wire and felt.

 Here is me next to my piece, in a favourite Colinette Tagliateli hand knit sweater.

 These are the other 9 pieces, each of three photos were reproduced in mixed fiber art by three different artists, who had to coordinate the edges of their pieces to match the one next door!  There is quilting, painting, paper, stitching, beading and even natural wood and rocks applied to the surfaces.  One is all rug hooking!

And finally one silly photo, doing my best Price-is-Right showcase pose.... notice the concentration on the face...  such a serious artist!

If you are in the Niagara Peninsula, and wish to see these wonderful pieces in person (and they DO look even more amazing in person than in photo) go to the Region Headquarters, first building on Schmon Parkway, off St. David's Road in Thorold.  In the main doorway, left through the cafeteria, to the next hall.... there is the first set, and the next right is the second set.  Anyone can stop by in business hours!  And send me a comment if you have seen them in person.  I would love to hear what you think!

Cosy Pebble Wrap

 I like wraps and shawls and ponchos.  They are easy to knit and easy to wear.  And you SHOULD wear them.  Very fashionable and practical, and they fit everyone!  Seed stitch is so user friendly.  It will not curl at any edge, and gives a lovely pebbly texture.  Timeless.

Cozy Pebble Wrap

Yarn:  Worsted Weight yarn, about 800 meters, and works to gauge.  I used Noro Vintage in browns. (8 50 gram balls)

Needles: 4.5 mm (US 7)

Size:    ONE SIZE fits most.

Gauge : 12 sts = 4 inches in seed stitch

Seed Stitch (odd number of stitches)  every row:    K1, P1… across to last stitch, K1

Make 2 rectangles:    Cast on 59 stitches, work in seed stitch for 30 inches.  Cast off all stitches.

Following the drawing, join first seam as pictured, then pull A to A and B to B, and sew all or most of that seam.  I left about 4 inches not sewn at the neck edge to make a fold over collar. (see photos)

Noro yarn , when washed gently in cold and laid flat to dry, gets a bit bigger than the 18 “ by 30”.  It also gets really soft and drapes well, so go ahead and wash it before you wear it!

question - please help with an answer!

Hi readers....  I have had a few comments and emails about my patterns.  Just to get some new readers up to date... I started this blog to hold on to the patterns that I created for (mostly) my own personal knitting.  Some are gifts, but most are for me.  So, as you may notice, and possibly be upset by, the garments are mostly in the medium, size 10-ish range.
Now, many years later, the blog has grown to a larger audience, and I need to revisit my goal for the blog.  I find maybe it is NOT just for me and a handful of curious readers (what is Chris knitting next?).  Perhaps it is time to attempt to step up and write my patterns for a variety of sizes.
So to that end, I have added the opinion pole in the upper right.  Please add your 2cents worth, and make my decision easier.  It is much more work , and much more MATH, to do multi-sizes, but if there is enough interest I would try to go in that direction.  The pole closes in one week.
Thanks for you input!  Cheers, Chris

Million Hits Sweater

Million Hit Sweater.   Now with four sizes, because you asked....

Thanks to all my wonderful blog-fans, I have surpassed the million hit mark.  I am overwhelmed to be here, and never thought the blog would be more than just a place to store my patterns and photos, a scrapbook of my knitting passion.

This ribbed raglan sweater is really stretchy, and easy fitting.

Sizes:  Small (36” at bust), medium (40”), large (44), xlarge (48). These are the finished measurements if you have a true gauge, and measure the sweater without stretching.

Yarn:   Sport weight yarn that works to gauge*****  I used Codex by Nova, silver, 50gms are 126yards, 9[10, 12, 14] balls should do.

Needles:  4mm (US 6) straight , small circular 3.5mm (US 5) for neck ribbing.*** option for straight needles at neck – see pattern.

Gauge:  19 sts = 4 inches in RIB PATTERN, on 4mm needles.  Best to measure your swatch after blocking and adjust your needles or yarn to match this gauge.

RIB PATTERN:  row one (even number of stitches): knit one, purl one across.  Row two: purl all stitches.

Pattern:

BACK:  With 4mm needles, cast on 78[88,98,106] stitches.  Work in knit 2, purl 2 ribbing for 1.5 inches.  Increase 6 stitches over the last row of ribbing.  84[94,104,112] now on the needles.

Change to RIB PATTERN and work even for 14[15, 16, 17] inches from the start.

Start raglan shaping.  Row one:  (right side) knit two, knit two together, continue the rib pattern until 4 stitches remain, knit two together, knit two.

Row two: Purl all across.

Repeat these two rows until 42[46,50,54] sts remain.  Cast off all stitches.  (I like to cast off here, rather than put on holders, so that the neckline is more stable and NOT so stretchy.)

FRONT:  Work same as back until 52[56,60,64] remain in the raglan decrease stage.  Cast off center 30[34,38,42]sts, and working both sides at the same time: continue to do raglan decreases at the sides, AND knit two together at the neck edges, every right side row.  Purl the wrong sides.  You should end up with only one stitch on each side. Break yarn and thread through loop to secure.

SLEEVES:

Cast on 38[44,48,52] stitches.  Work in knit 2, purl 2 ribbing for 2 inches.  Increase 4 stitches over the last row of ribbing.

Change to RIB PATTERN, work up sleeve.  Increase one stitch at each side, every six rows until you have 72[78,88,92] stitches.  Continue even until sleeve is 15[15,15.5,16] inches from start.

Work raglan shaping: work the same as back shaping.  Work until 30[30,34,34] stitches remain.  Next row:  decrease row: Knit 2,[ knit 2 together, knit2]repeating bracket  across all stitches.  Cast off remaining 23[23,26,26] stitches.

Stitch the raglan seams, attaching sleeves to front and back.*if using straight needles for the neckline, leave one of the back – sleeve seams unsewn, and work back and forth instead of around.

With small circular needles, pick up 100[108,112,116]stitches evenly around the neckline opening.  This is not every stitch, as youneed a tiny bit of gathering to keep the neck from stretching too wide.  Work in knit 2, purl 2 ribbing, for 1.5 inches.  Cast off loosely.

Sew last raglan seam if left open for neck.

Sew side seams and sleeve seams.