Wood Hoods
The design for these Wood Hoods came after several less than perfect attempts. Socks that were too loose and the covers slipped off. Fuzzy eyelash yarn heads that looked great, but were too delicate to hold up to the rough treatment. Final result is a sock that is tight but stretchy and a fuzzy hood that can be pulled off my Big Bertha and tossed on the ground and still look great.
The secret is felting. An eyelash and pure wool worked together, then felted creates a firm, fuzzy, durable lid. If knit atop a non-felting acrylic ribbed sock, the whole thing can be washed and felted together.
Choose conservative colors for the traditional duffer, or bright colors that can be spotted three fairways away. Shown in yellow and black[version 2] and peacock and multi[version 1].
SIZE
Two sizes: smaller for fairway woods, larger[in brackets] for the driver. *** New size for Hybrids can be found
HERE***
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS”Sock” section [tube] is 2.5[3.0] inches wide and 12 inches long.
Hood section is 6.5[7.5] inches wide and 7.5[8.5] inches long BEFORE felting.
Hood is 5[6] inches wide and long AFTER felting.
MATERIALS [for 3 Wood Hoods]
[Hood Yarn #1]: Patons Classic Wool [100% wool**** NOT the superwash version****; 223 yds per 100g skein]; color: peacock[version one], black[version two]; 1 skein[Hood Yarn #2] Lion Brand Fun Fur [100# polyester; 60 yds per 50g skein]; color: peacock[version one], black[version two]; 2 skeins
[“Sock” Yarn] Patons Canadiana worsted weight [100% Acrylic; 170 yds per 85g skein]; color: crazy shades[version one], yellow[version two] 1 skein
1 set US 10.5/6.5mm double-point needles for hoods
1 set US 7/4.5mm double-point needles for “socks”
Notions required: purchase sew-on number patches [optional] *****NEW
make your own numbers tutorial!!GAUGE
11 sts/19 rows = 4” in stockinette stitch with Hood Yarn #1 and #2 held together on 6.5mm needles
14 sts/24 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch in Canadiana on 4.5 mm needles
PATTERN NOTES
When substituting yarns, ensure that the “sock” yarn is 100% acrylic and fairly sturdy twist, so it holds a stretchy rib without sagging. If you choose a yarn that has any wool in it, knit the “sock” separate from the Hood, and felt wash the Hood alone, then attach the “sock”. You want the Hood to felt, and shrink, but NOT the “sock”. Also make sure the Hood Yarn #1 is 100% wool and not a superwash wool. You want it to felt well.
PATTERN
Sock: Starting with “sock” yarn and 4.5mm needles cast on LOOSELY 32[36] and distribute between 3 dpn’s. Join without twisting, and work in k2, p2 ribbing in the round for 12 inches.
Last row of “sock”: [k3, make a stitch by knitting in the front and back of next stitch], repeat across. 40[45] stitches on needles.
Hood: Change to 6.5mm dpn’s, and Classic Wool and Fun Fur, begin stocking stitch loosely in the round, with both yarns worked together.
Work until the fuzzy hood is 7[8] inches long.
Decrease row 1: k1[k0] then [k2tog, k1] repeated across this row. 27[30] sts remain.
Row 2: [K2tog, k1] repeated across this row. 18[20] remain.
Row 3: K2tog, repeated across this row. 9[10] remain.
Break 10 inch tail of both yarns, and using large eye darning needle thread tail through remaining stitches to gather closed and securely fasten the tail. Sew in all yarn ends.
FINISHING
Felting is simple in the washing machine, with hot water. Use a regular setting and small load size. I usually put the item[s] in a mesh bag to reduce the wooly residue in the tub and drain, and will throw old dishtowels in to help beat up the wood hoods. One full cycle , with laundry detergent, usually reaches the dimensions required, but you can check every 5 minutes and do a second cycle if needed to get the approximate size of finished measurements. You want a firm, dense, fuzzy fabric. Air dry and reshape the ribbing to allow it to dry unstretched.
Sew optional numbers on top of hood, 1 for driver, 3, 5, or whatever is required for others. I have also used letter beads to spell our “driver”, “three” and “five” and sew to hood.
