Sunday, April 29, 2018

Placket Pullover

I was looking to do a button placket neck in a loose oversized pullover, using some beautiful hand spun merino yarn.  (this yarn is the first full sweater's worth of hand spun since I got my new spinning wheel in the winter.) Two buttons allow an open or closed neckline.


Sizes:  In an oversized fit:  Small: 38 inch finished chest [Medium: 42 inch finished, Large: 46 inch finished]
Yarn:  light to medium weight yarn (#3 or 4, light worsted, or worsted weight)  ***must match to Gauge to work, please, do a swatch, then wash or block the swatch.  Dry then measure.
350 [400,450] grams total, and about 1100 [1200, 1300] yards total required.
Needles: 4.5mm (7US)
Gauge:  18 sts = 4 inches, after blocking.

BACK:  using 4.5mm needles throughout,  cast on 77 [85, 93].  Work in seed stitch: [K1, P1], repeat to last stitch, K1. do this every row for 1 inch.  With wrong side facing, increase 8[9,10] stitches along the last row of seed stitch.
Change to stocking stitch, (knit right side, purl wrong side) and work for 24"[25", 26"]   or total length you prefer for the back.... bind off all stitches.

FRONT:  begin as for back, work until piece measures 17" [18", 19"].
Divide for placket:  with right side facing, knit 39 [43,47] stitches.  Attach a second ball of yarn, leaving first right there, bind off center 7[8,9] stitches, then work to the end.  You should have 39[43,47] stitches on each side of the placket bind off.  Working both sides at once, work until piece measures 21[22,23] inches from the start.
Neck shaping:  (right side facing) knit the left side, then bind off 9 stitches at the start of the right front side.  Next row: purl the right front side, then bind off 9 stitches from the left side.  Now knit two together at the NECK EDGE of BOTH sides on the next three right side rows.  Continue without further shaping until the front is the same length as the back.  Bind off all stitches.

SLEEVE:  Cast on 37[39,41] stitches.  Work in seed stitch for one inch, increasing 5 evenly across the last row.  Right side facing, work in stocking stitch , increasing one each side every 4 rows until you have 86[90,94] stitches, then work evenly until your sleeve is 17"[18", 19"] long, Bind off all stitches.


PLACKET EDGE:  On the left side, with right side facing you, start at the neck shaping edge, and pick up 23 stitches evenly to the bottom of the placket opening (just the straight left side.).  Work in seed stitch for 1.5 inches. Bind off loosely.  On the right side, pick up 23 stitches and start seed stitch. On the sixth row (right side facing you) work 10 stitches, Yarn Over , purl 2 together, seed 8, Yarn Over, purl 2 together, work to end.  Next row work seed as usual, purling into the yarn overs as you pass them by.  Continue until 1.5 inches, and bind off.

NECK EDGE:  With right side facing, pick up 7 sts across the placket, 9 across the front cast off, 10 up the side neck of the front, 31[33,33] across the back neck , 10 down the left side neck, 9 across the left front, and 7 across the left placket.  Work in seed stitch for one inch, and bind off all loosely.

FINISHING:  Center the sleeve evenly with shoulder seam at center of sleeve top.  Sew this seam, Then sew sleeve seam and side seam to finish.  Sew two buttons in place.